Michael Costiff is the London face who’s inspired, influenced and worked alongside some of the most celebrated fashion industry greats. He’s the man behind the clothing boutique WORLD (and later WORLDArchive in Dover Street Market), he founded the club night Kinky Gerlinky with his late wife Gerlinde and in 2002 the V&A Museum monumentally acquired 178 outfits (almost 300 pieces) from their personal collection of clothing, referred to as The Costiff Collection.

In 2013 he released the retrospective book Michael and Gerlinde’s World: Pages From a Diary and he still owns his studded leather wristbands from when he was a punk rocker.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Q. You were a Kings Road mover and shaker in the 70s & 80s. What brought you to London and what was the catalyst that got you to gravitate towards and want to spend time on the Kings Road, Chelsea?

A. I come from a small (and then remote) village in the Peak District National Park in Derbyshire. I had a magical country childhood. I was always interested in fashion, art and music, so there was nothing of that for me there. I headed down to London (on the bus) to look for a job and on a beautiful sunny day in June 1969 I started work at I Was Lord Kitcheners Valet right in the heart of the Kings Road when the whole world was looking at Chelsea. Wow, it was so exciting, better than anything I ever imagined, all dolly birds, sports cars, Afghan coats, velvet loons, scarf-dresses....and bells!

Q. Before founding The London Leatherman Ken was the silent partner of Emmerton & Lambert the store in Chelsea Antique Market frequented by The Rolling Stones, The Small Faces and everyone who was anyone down the Kings Road. You ran a cafe in the Chelsea Antique Market? When was this and can you offer any insight to the atmosphere in the market at this time?

A. By 1971 I had a stall in Antiquarius in the Kings Road, but in 1972 we moved down the road and took over The Terrace Cafe in Chelsea Antique Market. Vern (Lambert) and Adrian (Emmerton) shared the top floor with us, although Adrian pulled out pretty soon after we arrived, and sort of disappeared? (*) Vern was an absolute genius and a lovely sweet and kind man and enviously knowledgeable. It really was the golden age of antiques and he was one of the first people to start selling antique and vintage fashion (it was unheard of before). He had the most amazing and beautiful stock, which I have never seen surpassed. I remember all those old Chelsea divas struggling up the stairs with armfuls of beaded dresses, exotic furs and embroidered robes to show Vern. We always had lots of fun every day with Ulla, Jenny Kee and Louise Doktor his glamourous staff and on sunny summer days our outside terrace was packed. Vern’s was a must visit destination for EVERYBODY who was happening on the scene at that time, and they all needed a coffee, so seeing people like Nureyev, Amanda Lear, Penelope Tree, Quentin Crisp, Verushca, Manalo Blahnik etc. everyday seemed quite normal. We had a blast!...We still stayed friends with Vern and Anna up until their deaths and even went to visit them in Italy.

(*Note for context: Adrian Emmerton was Ken’s boyfriend for 15+ years, he left the Emmerton & Lambert stall in the early 70s to start the clothing label South Sea Bubble Ltd. By 1971 Ken had already started The London Leatherman. Their time with Emmerton & Lambert was very much the 60s, the mid-60s being particularly electric with Ken making the clothes for the stall, we’re talking Jimmy Hendrix’s purple velvet trousers, Brian Jones’ cravat shirts...)

Q. As a punk rocker, did you ever wear any leather or studded leather? If yes, what? Where did you buy it and what in your opinion was the significance of wearing leather as a punk?

A. I was in my late twenties when Punk appeared, so hardly a "disaffected" youth, but I loved the fashions. I felt like a million dollars in my bondage suit. We snapped up loads from SEX and Seditionaries. We lived just down the road from Worlds End (and still do), so it was all going on right on our doorstep. Exciting times! Had lots of studded wristbands (still have them) but can’t remember where I bought them, probably Beaufort Market. The perfect accessory.

Q. You and your wife Gerlinde were prominent faces on the London club scene particularly in the 80s & 90s. I went to your club night Kinky Gerlinky a couple of times, one night it was for Planet Kinky where I was painted blue and dressed in a Star Trek outfit, looking nowhere near as outrageous as the other revelers. If you were to pick just one memorable night at Kinky Gerlinky, what was it and what did you wear?

A. Gerlinde and I were reluctant club promoters. What started as a party for friends grew into a monster. We ran the club from 1989 until 1994 and had a ball! We did 42 nights!

One Night that stands out was THE DAZZLE BALL at The Empire Ballroom, Leicester Square,with the biggest dancefloor in Europe. It was our Charity event for Aids charities and attracted 2,500 fun lovers. We had cabaret performances by Sinead O Connor, Neneh Cherry, Boy George, Nina Hagen, Nick Kamen and more. The atmosphere was so joyous and electric, a truly memorable night.

When I look back I realise what a huge operation it was, how did we do all that? But everybody was up for it, so it seemed easy.

Q. What club night, other than your own, was your favourite and why?

A. The first London club night we went to was Yours & Mine at the Sombrero in Kensington High Street. We went out a lot. Billy’s, Hell, Maunkberry, Blitz, Cha Cha, The Embassy, Camden Palace, Wag, Taboo, Daisy Chain, Queer Nation...lots of good times.

Q. Your shop WORLD was fantastic, what comes to mind for me is that it was a shop where high-brow street culture from all over the world collided with rave. How do you synopsize WORLD to anyone just discovering it?

A. Attached are a couple of press pieces about WORLD....I think they tell you enough.

Q. There’s no getting away from your style icon status. What would you say is the most significant look you’ve self-styled? The clothing, accessories and shoes worn. When did you wear it, why does it resonate and do you have a photo?

A. The clothes that Rei Kowakubo (Comme des Garçons) designed for me to model in her Paris Catwalk show.

2007, Michael Costiff wearing clothes designed for him by Rei Kowakubo of Comme des Garçons. Photographer Junichiro Tokumasu.

Q. Portobello Market on a Friday, what does it or what did it mean to you?

A. I think I’ve been going there ever since I arrived in London and still do. You can still always find something and I know I will always bump into people I know. Strolling down the market on a sunny day is always a pleasure.

Q. Who would you say has been the biggest inspiration or influence on your career in fashion and culture thus far?

A. I like good manners and kindness. I’m always attracted to people who do their own thing, no matter how wacky, I like positive energy.

Q. Are you currently working on any projects you can disclose here?

A. I like to be busy so I always have lots of projects going on, but never "go public" until they are complete.