Responsible for the rocker revival look of 1979, Lloyd Johnson is the Mod who glamourised the leather look of a 1950s rocker with his label La Rocka! He championed this style into the 80s, dressing everyone from The Stray Cats, The Clash, The Pretenders, Johnny Thunders, George Michael and even George Harrison.
A style guru to many, Lloyd’s a pivotal reference when it comes to piecing together Britain’s streetwear history.
Questions by Dave Carroll
Edited by Bridget Veal
Q. Your shop Johnson’s, The Modern Outfitters had a few locations with the 406 Kings Road being particularly electric. What did opening a shop on the Kings Road in the 1970s mean to you?
A. It was very exciting to open in the Kings Road in 1978. I’d wanted a shop there since 1967. I went after several shops but always got gazumped!
Q. You have encyclopedic knowledge when it comes to mid-century men’s fashion in particular British, Americana and continental clothing. Who in your opinion is the best dressed Mod(or Mods) and why?
A. The Italian Mods by a long shot!
Q. You sold and made Mod style clothing at Johnsons. What was the trigger that had you reviving the Mod look for the 70s?
A. I guess it was being asked to make clothes for Quadrophenia. We were already selling original deadstock 60s ‘MOD’ clothes when we were asked by Sandy Gandy who was friends with the Art Director/wardrobe on the film.
Q. Can you elaborate on the clothes you made for the film Quadrophenia (1979)?
A. We made Sting’s suit, Phil Daniel’s outfit, some tonic suits for the main characters and all the Blue Beat hats.
Q. I remember you doing amazing black leather three button jackets for Johnson’s, The Modern Outfitters. Did you produce anything else in leather for the mod side of Johnson’s?
A. We made the 3 button leather blazers in loads of other colours. The Jam bought the red ones, The Jags had several colours including a yellow one.
Q. Seemingly overnight, in 1979 you turned Johnson’s into a shop for rock’n rollers and rockers. With a nod to the 1950s and 60s you came up with high-stylised rockers looks. What was the trigger that made you jump from mod clothing to rockers clothing?
A. We were being called a ‘MOD SHOP’ by then and I thought that was driving me up a one way street SO!…we decided to do a small black leather range. the Original Tab biker jacket, the Zip Leg leather jeans and the short Pirate biker boot. The (La Rocka!) skull buttons and the Pirate look biker boots were a nod to Johnny Kidd & The Pirates who were one of my favourite groups of the early 60s. I saw them often play Hastings Pier Ballroom, great group!
Q. What’s your take on the cross-over between a 1950s rocker and the leatherman look of the 1960s and 70s?
A. I wasn’t aware of The London Leatherman until Dave told me about it and that his Mum worked there.
Q. Best dressed leather look(s) in history, and why?
A. The 59 Club ton up boys, Marcel in Belle de Jour, The Leather Boys, Gene Vincent…look for photos they speak for themselves… I particularly liked Marcel in Belle de Jour he bought a leather dandy feel to his look.
Q. Top Of The Pops was the catwalk for Johnson’s La Rocka! Who in your opinion wore La Rocka! leathers the best on the show and why?
A. TOTP in the 80s, so many groups/bands wore La Rocka! back then but I have to say ‘The Lords of The New Church’ wore La Rocka! the best and that was because they wore the complete look as it was intended.
Q. The staff that worked at Johnson’s La Rocka! were London scene-sters who looked fantastic in the clothes. Antoine Mills and Trudi Garland were THE poster-boy and poster-girl for the shop. Was this deliberate on your behalf or luck that the fusion was so perfect between them and your styling?
A. The whole Johnsons/La Rocka! look was organic and instinctive and the inspiration for the designs came from things and clothing I remembered from my youth, it grew in a natural way, we seemed to attract physically good looking people that wanted to wear the clothes. The staff got a free outfit each time we did a new range and after that clothes at a discount so they always wore La Rocka!/Johnson out to the clubs and pubs which was obviously a good advert for the shops.
Q. Today La Rocka! boots are of iconic status, your Gladiator boots, Pirate Boots, Zero Boots being particularly striking. What was the inspiration behind these?
A. The Pirate Boots were designed from memories of Johnny Kidd and The Pirates. I called the Gladiator Boots after Nero & The Gladiators who I use to see play on Hastings Pier Ballroom in the early 60s. The Zero Boots were named after the Japanese fighter airplane to fit with the Rock n’ Roll Suicide range which was inspired by WW11 in the Pacific.
Q. Behind every great man is a great woman. The collaboration between you and your wife Jill is legendary. What’s your favourite collection or piece of clothing you designed together and why?
A. The favourite items we did together are the white shirt with frills across the shoulders and down the sleeves Jill designed for Chrissie Hynde and the white waistcoat I designed and Jill made. Jill made both items. Both items appeared on The Pretenders L.P. cover.
Q. Favourite La Rocka! leather jacket you designed and why?
A. The favourite leather jacket I designed is The Original Tab Biker Jacket. It’s my favourite because it was the first one I designed and it was a massive success. It also looked great in loads of different colours of leathers. It worked so well and still does.