Paul Breuer, purveyor of vintage clothing, specialising in menswear and vintage workwear. He's been a trader at London’s famous Portobello Market on a Friday since the early 90s, where he's as famous for his wicked sense of humour as he is for his vast knowledge of vintage menswear. He co-foundered the clothing archive, showroom and store Breuer & Dawson in Margate, Kent and in 2018 he offered Dave a pair of The London Leatherman leather jeans which sparked the official revival of the label, these jeans are stored safely in The London Leatherman archive.

Questions by Bridget Veal

The 1970s pair of LG2 Leather Jeans from Paul’s Portobello Market (Friday) stall. They’re now kept in tissue paper in our archive.

Q. You and Dave have known each other for quite a few decades now. Do you remember when you met? Do you have any fond memories of being at Portobello Market together?

A. I’m guessing me and Dave met in the late 80s at Portobello, pretty sure we bonded over our mutual love of punk rock. From The Clash, through to the UK Subs and 999. I must’ve heard Dave’s story about seeing the UK Subs at Battersea Town Hall about 8,000 times.

Both of us loved the Penny Smith photo book The Clash: Before & After and it always struck me that we were probably doing the same thing (growing up), 200 miles apart, I was in the North-West, he was in London and we were both buying old suits and taking in the trouser legs to try and look like The Clash.

Q. You have a mutual interest in punk rock and you like many of the same bands. How has punk or these bands influenced you and your work? (i.e you were in a band yourself and you’ve always had a great collection of vintage denim, leather and band shirts on your stall.)

A. I don’t think I would’ve got into selling vintage clothes if it wasn’t for my love of music. Starting off with Bowie and Mott The Hoople moving onto The Clash, Chelsea and The Adverts, clothing was always as important as the music. The tribal element of the British music scene was extremely important to me, and still is to this day with regards to what I look for in vintage clothing.

Q. Do you have any key memories of vintage punk rock clothing being at Portobello Market?

A. One of my key memories is suddenly a load of Paul Simonon’s clothing turning up, I think Dave‘s friend Miles had something to do with it. I remember getting a couple of cardigans and a pair of trousers, didn’t look quite as good on me as they did on him.

Another time, a load of old clothes belonging to Screaming Lord Sutch turned up, not exactly punk, but definitely a cornerstone of British rock ‘n’ roll..

Q. How would you describe your business? Are you consulting on/ specialising in/ sourcing/ offering any particular styles or eras of clothing at the moment?

A. My business has evolved over the years, I now sell very little American vintage, specialising almost entirely in British and European vintage clothing. Times and taste changes over the years..

Not sure, I have an overall philosophy, if I like it, I buy it, if I can make a profit on it, so much the better.

Q. (Without giving away your sources!) What tips would you give to collectors of vintage The London Leatherman wanting to source specific pieces? Does much of it turn up at Portobello Market or at Breuer & Dawson?

A. As far as The London Leatherman pieces, good luck, not easy to find. But remember kids, the harder you work the luckier you get.

Q. What are you working on or hope to work on for 2023?

A. My aims for the future are to keep working for as long as I enjoy it, which I still do.