PEEL & LIFT X The London Leatherman collaboration

This September 20th to 23rd The London Leatherman & cult streetwear label out of Japan, PEEL & LIFT will be releasing eight collaborative clothing & accessory pieces, exclusively at:

PEEL＆LIFT 新宿POP UP vol.2｜新宿マルイ メン｜マルイ

Shinjuku Marui Men, 1st Floor Event Space

Shinjuku 5-16-4, Shinjukuku-ku, Tokyo, 160-002 JAPAN

Items will include:

T-shirt with Peel & Lift and The London Leatherman fusion logo artwork.

Black leather jean taken from the 1976 The London Leatherman pattern and produced in a premium wax cow hide leather for the perfect subtle shine reminiscent of the leathers worn by the original British punk rockers (made in England), customised with stud detailing by Peel & Lift.

Cotton handkerchief with Peel & Lift and The London Leatherman fusion logo artwork.

An organic tea with Peel & Lift and The London Leatherman fusion packaging.

A set of Peel & Lift and The London Leatherman logo badges.

A limited edition Leather Head Mask evocative of the The London Leatherman masks once worn by David Bowie, Adam Ant and Little Nell in Derek Jarmans 1978 film Jubilee. Crafted in exquisitely soft nappa (made in England).

A completely unique black mohair jumper made by Peel & Lift with red applique of the The London Leatherman LW19 Soft Lip Head Mask. (image coming soon)

The London Leatherman LW4 Leather Neckbands and Wristbands with dome studs (made in England)

For enquiries contact: 

Japan Email: info@peelandlift.com Instagram: PEEL&LIFT (@peelandlift) • Instagram photos and videos

UK Email: office@thelondonleatherman.com Instagram: The London Leatherman (@thelondonleatherman) • Instagram photos and videos

The London Leatherman the clothing and accessories label was founded in circa 1971 to an audience of style connoisseurs, rebels and fetishists, it dressed the glam rock, heavy rock and soul boy scenes of the early 70s, the arrival of disco in 1976 and by 1977 was being worn by all notable punk rockers, the most documented being the Sex Pistols and The Clash.

“I first heard of The London Leatherman while I was working for Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood at their shop SEX at 430 Kings Road between 1975 and 1976. I would go to the shop in Battersea to collect and place orders with the then-owner Ken. By the way, the shop was as classy as the garments themselves. A very dark and mysterious interior with a big illuminated fish tank in the middle of it. I really admired the workmanship, high quality and simplicity of the pieces. There was a sexual undertone about them mixed with the idea of bringing fetish wear to everyday life. I wore a leather pencil skirt and cape combo as day wear and felt empowered by it. Nowadays the brand name has been carried on by Dave Carroll who obviously cares very passionately about high quality pieces that make a statement, are made to last and are classic. I own several T-shirts and some superb studded and non-studded wristbands and belts that I wear almost constantly. You can smell the quality as well as see it and they get much attention and compliments wherever I go. Dave has on occasion made a special piece for me to my own specifications which is a mark of someone who loves his art.”

- Jordan Mooney (Another Man 2020)

Today The London Leatherman is still made in England, reimagined for the current day, using the very best leather and fittings whilst paying homage to the labels important heritage.

PEEL&LIFT Designer Takeshi Hosoya worked as a shop manager at Undercover before establishing his own brand PEEL & LIFT, in 2005.

PEEL & LIFT is strongly influenced by the counterculture of 1970s British punk rock, expressing a unique world that blends elements of the counterculture of that era with contemporary interpretations of Tokyo street fashion. The collection reflects the rebellious spirit and DIY ethos of punk, while taking a sophisticated approach.

The London Leatherman Accessories styled with Lewis Leathers Jackets

With the recent passing of Lewis Leathers President Derek Harris, we’ve been reflecting on the profound body of work he achieved with the company he officially acquired in 2003. Most impressive was his researching skills, delving into the archives of British leather jacket companies and their relevant sub-cultures, with his expertise and passion being punk rock.

In the 70s it wasn’t unusual to see a punk rocker wearing a Lewis Leathers jacket paired with The London Leatherman accessories, like Paul Simonon (The Clash) in photos by Bob Gruen and Sid Vicious when signing to A&M Records outside Buckingham Palace in 1977 wearing his vintage Lewis Leather ‘Dominator’ jacket with The London Leatherman LW10 Studded Wristband.

And it’s this pre-punk cover of Club International Magazine by photographer David Parkinson that sparked many conversations with the model wearing a vintage Lewis Leather jacket and unlined, studded neckband made by The London Leatherman.

If you’d like to know more about Derek’s research work with Lewis Leathers you can purchase his book here: Lewis Leathers: Wings, Wheels and Rock 'n' Roll

Fantastic Man 40th Anniversary Issue

See the The London Leatherman ‘Special Order’ 1976 Style Leather Jeans in the 40th Anniversary Issue of Fantastic Man Magazine.

Photographed by Matthias Vriens & styled by Gerry O’Kane for the cover story starring Haider Ackermann.

40th Anniversary Issue of @manfantastic with Haider Ackermann @h.a

Styled by @gerryroryokane
Photo by @matthiasvriens
Grooming @liztaw
Production Jordan Kelly @jamiemacrae
Styling assistant @annaswease.y

Talking About The Kit- Dave Barbarossa

Dave Barbarossa the founding drummer for Adam And The Ants and then Bow Wow Wow is famed for his progressive tribal drumming style that directly influenced post-punk, new wave and electronic music of the 90s. Whilst still a musician he’s also a writer and has just released his new novel Mute.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Dave Barbarossa, third from left, with his Bow Wow Wow bandmates Leigh Gorman, Annabella Lwin & Matthew Ashman wearing his The London Leatherman LW10 Cone Stud Wristband Cuff.

Q. Dirk Wears White Sox, your first album with Adam And The Ants encapsulates the punk rock, leather, fetish fusion of the 1970s. What’s a key memory from working on the album your fans may be surprised to discover?

A. There are no surprises. It was simply hard work. Adam was a perfectionist and expected his band to have the same attitude. I found that an easy attitude to adopt, as I wanted to play on the album to the very best of my ability. We rehearsed hard and diligently. The album appears to have stood the test of time. 

Adam fronting Adam & The Ants in 1977 wearing a The London Leatherman LW19 Head Mask.

Q. For the 1977 Adam And The Ants gig at the ICA in London Adam wore The London Leatherman clothing and accessories including the LW19 leather head mask. Do you remember the leather mask and what impact it had on the gig(s)? And what did you wear for this moment in music history?

A. I was not in the band for that gig. I joined the one after. But he did wear masks (rubber and leather) in the early days. The impact was always strong, especially when he took it off. There was an element of theatrical reveal. 

I cannot remember what I wore. I know I had every little money (certainly not enough for fashionable clothes). Adam gave me some cast - offs. I had my trusty leather bikers jacket, of course. 

Q. How would you describe your clothing style whilst in Adam And The Ants, were you self-styled?

A. I think Adam was very into sharpness, tonic strides, crisp shirts. He was not a fan of that ‘dog on a string’ punk look in the slightest. Our look mirrored our sound, contained, sharp, bordering on explosive. 

Q. Cosy Powell used to wear early The London Leatherman wristbands for style and as wrist-strengtheners whilst drumming. Who would you say are the top three best-dressed drummers in history?

A. I really haven’t a clue. I’m more of a ‘form follows function’ sort of person. I want to hear, before I look. 

Q. When you formed the post-punk band Bow Wow Wow you were styled head to toe by Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren. Matthew Ashman the guitarist wore his The London Leatherman LW10 studded wristband cuffs and LW3 belt with these looks and looked amazing. Did you ever wear any studded leather as a punk rocker or post punk?

A. No. I had no accoutrements, I don’t even wear a watch or a ring. Matthew was by far the most concerned with image, he always looked great. I just did as I was told. It was all about the music for me, still is. 

Q. In 2012 you became a published novelist. What was the catalyst that made you start writing?

A. I had a rather depressing episode in a band on a huge tour of The States and decided I’d had enough. My daughters were very young and I’d missed my sons growing up when they were that age because I was on the road a lot. I still had a strong desire to express myself artistically, so as I wasn’t drumming, I began to write. It’s a far less immediate, physical buzz, but it filled that place in me that has something to say. 

Q. Your new novel Mute has just been published, what can your readers expect when they pick up their copy?

A. I guess ‘authenticity' as it’s set in bands and the music industry, and that has been my life. It’s about tyranny (in a band) love, people re-inventing themselves, weakness, redemption and justice. 

Q. Where can readers pick up their copy of Mute?

A. They can buy from local book stores, Amazon or direct from the publisher on the 'Astral Horizon' online shop.

Collaborator Profile- Lloyd Johnson

Responsible for the rocker revival look of 1979, Lloyd Johnson is the Mod who glamourised the leather look of a 1950s rocker with his label La Rocka! He championed this style into the 80s, dressing everyone from The Stray Cats, The Clash, The Pretenders, Johnny Thunders, George Michael and even George Harrison.

A style guru to many, Lloyd’s a pivotal reference when it comes to piecing together Britain’s streetwear history.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Q. Your shop Johnson’s, The Modern Outfitters had a few locations with the 406 Kings Road being particularly electric. What did opening a shop on the Kings Road in the 1970s mean to you?

A. It was very exciting to open in the Kings Road in 1978. I’d wanted a shop there since 1967. I went after several shops but always got gazumped!

Q. You have encyclopedic knowledge when it comes to mid-century men’s fashion in particular British, Americana and continental clothing. Who in your opinion is the best dressed Mod(or Mods) and why?

A. The Italian Mods by a long shot!

Q. You sold and made Mod style clothing at Johnsons. What was the trigger that had you reviving the Mod look for the 70s?

A. I guess it was being asked to make clothes for Quadrophenia. We were already selling original deadstock 60s ‘MOD’ clothes when we were asked by Sandy Gandy who was friends with the Art Director/wardrobe on the film.

Q. Can you elaborate on the clothes you made for the film Quadrophenia (1979)?

A. We made Sting’s suit, Phil Daniel’s outfit, some tonic suits for the main characters and all the Blue Beat hats.

Q. I remember you doing amazing black leather three button jackets for Johnson’s, The Modern Outfitters. Did you produce anything else in leather for the mod side of Johnson’s?

A. We made the 3 button leather blazers in loads of other colours. The Jam bought the red ones, The Jags had several colours including a yellow one.

Q. Seemingly overnight, in 1979 you turned Johnson’s into a shop for rock’n rollers and rockers. With a nod to the 1950s and 60s you came up with high-stylised rockers looks. What was the trigger that made you jump from mod clothing to rockers clothing?

A. We were being called a ‘MOD SHOP’ by then and I thought that was driving me up a one way street SO!…we decided to do a small black leather range. the Original Tab biker jacket, the Zip Leg leather jeans and the short Pirate biker boot. The (La Rocka!) skull buttons and the Pirate look biker boots were a nod to Johnny Kidd & The Pirates who were one of my favourite groups of the early 60s. I saw them often play Hastings Pier Ballroom, great group!

Q. What’s your take on the cross-over between a 1950s rocker and the leatherman look of the 1960s and 70s?

A. I wasn’t aware of The London Leatherman until Dave told me about it and that his Mum worked there. 

Q. Best dressed leather look(s) in history, and why?

A. The 59 Club ton up boys, Marcel in Belle de Jour, The Leather Boys, Gene Vincent…look for photos they speak for themselves… I particularly liked Marcel in Belle de Jour he bought a leather dandy feel to his look.

Q. Top Of The Pops was the catwalk for Johnson’s La Rocka! Who in your opinion wore La Rocka! leathers the best on the show and why?

A. TOTP in the 80s, so many groups/bands wore La Rocka! back then but I have to say ‘The Lords of The New Church’ wore La Rocka! the best and that was because they wore the complete look as it was intended.

Q. The staff that worked at Johnson’s La Rocka! were London scene-sters who looked fantastic in the clothes. Antoine Mills and Trudi Garland were THE poster-boy and poster-girl for the shop. Was this deliberate on your behalf or luck that the fusion was so perfect between them and your styling?

A. The whole Johnsons/La Rocka! look was organic and instinctive and the inspiration for the designs came from things and clothing I remembered from my youth, it grew in a natural way, we seemed to attract physically good looking people that wanted to wear the clothes. The staff got a free outfit each time we did a new range and after that clothes at a discount so they always wore La Rocka!/Johnson out to the clubs and pubs which was obviously a good advert for the shops.

Q. Today La Rocka! boots are of iconic status, your Gladiator boots, Pirate Boots, Zero Boots being particularly striking. What was the inspiration behind these?

A. The Pirate Boots were designed from memories of Johnny Kidd and The Pirates. I called the Gladiator Boots after Nero & The Gladiators who I use to see play on Hastings Pier Ballroom in the early 60s. The Zero Boots were named after the Japanese fighter airplane to fit with the Rock n’ Roll Suicide range which was inspired by WW11 in the Pacific.

Q. Behind every great man is a great woman. The collaboration between you and your wife Jill is legendary. What’s your favourite collection or piece of clothing you designed together and why?

A. The favourite items we did together are the white shirt with frills across the shoulders and down the sleeves Jill designed for Chrissie Hynde and the white waistcoat I designed and Jill made. Jill made both items. Both items appeared on The Pretenders L.P. cover.

Q. Favourite La Rocka! leather jacket you designed and why?

A. The favourite leather jacket I designed is The Original Tab Biker Jacket. It’s my favourite because it was the first one I designed and it was a massive success. It also looked great in loads of different colours of leathers. It worked so well and still does.

Collaborator Profile- Slim Jim Phantom

Slim Jim Phantom, the legendary drummer and rockabilly icon reflects on his neo-rockabilly style by answering 9 hot-fire questions before heading off on tour with his band the Stay Cats next week.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Q. Pre-forming the Stay Cats what was your scene, what was your style or a memorable outfit you’d wear?

A. Pre Stray Cats I was into mainly jazz and blues and I always loved the Beatles. I would always seek some kind of alternative clothing like an old fedora hat taken from an uncle's closet or one of my father’s neck ties and wear it with whatever else I had. I wore a referee’s shirt that was given to me while refereeing my sister’s soccer game with the aforementioned tie and hat.

Q. What influence would you say punk rock had on you?

A. Punk was good for the energy and it showed that styles could be combined. There was definitely some Eddie Cochran in there.

Q. In 1979 punk rock had run its course for kids like me and there was a moment where we didn’t know where to go when New Romantic, goth, disco and the soul scenes didn’t resonate. It was when I went to a rocking club, the St. Helier Arms in South London and saw kids still wearing their old punk T-shirts but with 1950s box jackets, chucker boots and pegs being the order of the day that I knew we’d found our new scene. Hair was no longer spiky but styled into bleached flat-tops or crazy-colour quiffs, what was your first rockabilly haircut?

A. My first rockabilly haircut was a big greasy pompadour. I was completely into the Elvis Presley look and style from the Sun Records era and anything I did was trying to achieve that look.

Q. Your gig at the Lyceum Ballroom 1981 was the epitome of the Stray Cats spearheading the rockabilly revival in London, is there anything about this gig or 1981 in London you can remember and your fans may be surprised to read?

A. 1981 was awesome! London was so happening and I was thrilled to be welcomed everywhere. An unintentional bonus of being in the Stray Cats was that we were embraced by all the different tribes. I went to every type of club and gig. I knew the doormen at every joint in town and went to every night of The Cash residency at the Lyceum that year. We also did a video with Dave Edmunds at the Cats soundcheck before one of our gigs there.

Q. Neo-rockabilly was a glamourised version of the rockabilly scene that had been before, we weren’t restricted to wearing only old (vintage) 50s clothing or homemade clothing like kids on the rocking scene would. Shops like Johnsons La Rocka! were designing almost caricature versions of clothing for rockers that could be styled with vintage clothing and looked amazing. What clothing shops did you shop at when in London?

A. I loved Johnson’s on Kings Rd, Lloyd is my close friend to this day. He thought we must be French rockers when he first saw us! I got a lot of stuff at Robot, especially shoes and also some great vintage pieces from Kavan at American Classics. My dear pal Peter Golding had Ace and 151 both very cool spots.

Q. Your not opposed to wearing gold leather. If you had to choose between a gold leather jacket and a black leather jacket, what would you choose and why?

A. Black is more classic and it goes with more outfits. That gold leather jacket definitely IS the outfit when you wear it.

Q. When you think of The London Leatherman what comes to mind?

A. The London Leatherman had that awesome leopard skin waistcoat! I wore it 1,000 times.

Q. Other than Elvis’ 68 Comeback Special look, who in your opinion is the best leather wearing rockabilly?

A. Gene Vincent really rocked the leathers!

Q. You’re about to head off on tour with the Stray Cats, what will you be wearing?

A. On the upcoming Stray Cats tour I'm going to wear a custom made classic western styled rockabilly suit. It's made of the best gabardine I could find and it’s got red diamond inlays with saddle stitch. It’s a shorter cut bolero style jacket. I’ll be sporting a few custom made sleeveless, cowboy shirts with coloured fringe made by my wife bassist and fashion designer Jennie Vee, red creepers and a bandana, of course!

SLIM JIM PHANTOM