Talking About The Kit- Dave Barbarossa

Dave Barbarossa the founding drummer for Adam And The Ants and then Bow Wow Wow is famed for his progressive tribal drumming style that directly influenced post-punk, new wave and electronic music of the 90s. Whilst still a musician he’s also a writer and has just released his new novel Mute.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Dave Barbarossa, third from left, with his Bow Wow Wow bandmates Leigh Gorman, Annabella Lwin & Matthew Ashman wearing his The London Leatherman LW10 Cone Stud Wristband Cuff.

Q. Dirk Wears White Sox, your first album with Adam And The Ants encapsulates the punk rock, leather, fetish fusion of the 1970s. What’s a key memory from working on the album your fans may be surprised to discover?

A. There are no surprises. It was simply hard work. Adam was a perfectionist and expected his band to have the same attitude. I found that an easy attitude to adopt, as I wanted to play on the album to the very best of my ability. We rehearsed hard and diligently. The album appears to have stood the test of time. 

Adam fronting Adam & The Ants in 1977 wearing a The London Leatherman LW19 Head Mask.

Q. For the 1977 Adam And The Ants gig at the ICA in London Adam wore The London Leatherman clothing and accessories including the LW19 leather head mask. Do you remember the leather mask and what impact it had on the gig(s)? And what did you wear for this moment in music history?

A. I was not in the band for that gig. I joined the one after. But he did wear masks (rubber and leather) in the early days. The impact was always strong, especially when he took it off. There was an element of theatrical reveal. 

I cannot remember what I wore. I know I had every little money (certainly not enough for fashionable clothes). Adam gave me some cast - offs. I had my trusty leather bikers jacket, of course. 

Q. How would you describe your clothing style whilst in Adam And The Ants, were you self-styled?

A. I think Adam was very into sharpness, tonic strides, crisp shirts. He was not a fan of that ‘dog on a string’ punk look in the slightest. Our look mirrored our sound, contained, sharp, bordering on explosive. 

Q. Cosy Powell used to wear early The London Leatherman wristbands for style and as wrist-strengtheners whilst drumming. Who would you say are the top three best-dressed drummers in history?

A. I really haven’t a clue. I’m more of a ‘form follows function’ sort of person. I want to hear, before I look. 

Q. When you formed the post-punk band Bow Wow Wow you were styled head to toe by Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren. Matthew Ashman the guitarist wore his The London Leatherman LW10 studded wristband cuffs and LW3 belt with these looks and looked amazing. Did you ever wear any studded leather as a punk rocker or post punk?

A. No. I had no accoutrements, I don’t even wear a watch or a ring. Matthew was by far the most concerned with image, he always looked great. I just did as I was told. It was all about the music for me, still is. 

Q. In 2012 you became a published novelist. What was the catalyst that made you start writing?

A. I had a rather depressing episode in a band on a huge tour of The States and decided I’d had enough. My daughters were very young and I’d missed my sons growing up when they were that age because I was on the road a lot. I still had a strong desire to express myself artistically, so as I wasn’t drumming, I began to write. It’s a far less immediate, physical buzz, but it filled that place in me that has something to say. 

Q. Your new novel Mute has just been published, what can your readers expect when they pick up their copy?

A. I guess ‘authenticity' as it’s set in bands and the music industry, and that has been my life. It’s about tyranny (in a band) love, people re-inventing themselves, weakness, redemption and justice. 

Q. Where can readers pick up their copy of Mute?

A. They can buy from local book stores, Amazon or direct from the publisher on the 'Astral Horizon' online shop.

Collaborator Profile- Lloyd Johnson

Responsible for the rocker revival look of 1979, Lloyd Johnson is the Mod who glamourised the leather look of a 1950s rocker with his label La Rocka! He championed this style into the 80s, dressing everyone from The Stray Cats, The Clash, The Pretenders, Johnny Thunders, George Michael and even George Harrison.

A style guru to many, Lloyd’s a pivotal reference when it comes to piecing together Britain’s streetwear history.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Q. Your shop Johnson’s, The Modern Outfitters had a few locations with the 406 Kings Road being particularly electric. What did opening a shop on the Kings Road in the 1970s mean to you?

A. It was very exciting to open in the Kings Road in 1978. I’d wanted a shop there since 1967. I went after several shops but always got gazumped!

Q. You have encyclopedic knowledge when it comes to mid-century men’s fashion in particular British, Americana and continental clothing. Who in your opinion is the best dressed Mod(or Mods) and why?

A. The Italian Mods by a long shot!

Q. You sold and made Mod style clothing at Johnsons. What was the trigger that had you reviving the Mod look for the 70s?

A. I guess it was being asked to make clothes for Quadrophenia. We were already selling original deadstock 60s ‘MOD’ clothes when we were asked by Sandy Gandy who was friends with the Art Director/wardrobe on the film.

Q. Can you elaborate on the clothes you made for the film Quadrophenia (1979)?

A. We made Sting’s suit, Phil Daniel’s outfit, some tonic suits for the main characters and all the Blue Beat hats.

Q. I remember you doing amazing black leather three button jackets for Johnson’s, The Modern Outfitters. Did you produce anything else in leather for the mod side of Johnson’s?

A. We made the 3 button leather blazers in loads of other colours. The Jam bought the red ones, The Jags had several colours including a yellow one.

Q. Seemingly overnight, in 1979 you turned Johnson’s into a shop for rock’n rollers and rockers. With a nod to the 1950s and 60s you came up with high-stylised rockers looks. What was the trigger that made you jump from mod clothing to rockers clothing?

A. We were being called a ‘MOD SHOP’ by then and I thought that was driving me up a one way street SO!…we decided to do a small black leather range. the Original Tab biker jacket, the Zip Leg leather jeans and the short Pirate biker boot. The (La Rocka!) skull buttons and the Pirate look biker boots were a nod to Johnny Kidd & The Pirates who were one of my favourite groups of the early 60s. I saw them often play Hastings Pier Ballroom, great group!

Q. What’s your take on the cross-over between a 1950s rocker and the leatherman look of the 1960s and 70s?

A. I wasn’t aware of The London Leatherman until Dave told me about it and that his Mum worked there. 

Q. Best dressed leather look(s) in history, and why?

A. The 59 Club ton up boys, Marcel in Belle de Jour, The Leather Boys, Gene Vincent…look for photos they speak for themselves… I particularly liked Marcel in Belle de Jour he bought a leather dandy feel to his look.

Q. Top Of The Pops was the catwalk for Johnson’s La Rocka! Who in your opinion wore La Rocka! leathers the best on the show and why?

A. TOTP in the 80s, so many groups/bands wore La Rocka! back then but I have to say ‘The Lords of The New Church’ wore La Rocka! the best and that was because they wore the complete look as it was intended.

Q. The staff that worked at Johnson’s La Rocka! were London scene-sters who looked fantastic in the clothes. Antoine Mills and Trudi Garland were THE poster-boy and poster-girl for the shop. Was this deliberate on your behalf or luck that the fusion was so perfect between them and your styling?

A. The whole Johnsons/La Rocka! look was organic and instinctive and the inspiration for the designs came from things and clothing I remembered from my youth, it grew in a natural way, we seemed to attract physically good looking people that wanted to wear the clothes. The staff got a free outfit each time we did a new range and after that clothes at a discount so they always wore La Rocka!/Johnson out to the clubs and pubs which was obviously a good advert for the shops.

Q. Today La Rocka! boots are of iconic status, your Gladiator boots, Pirate Boots, Zero Boots being particularly striking. What was the inspiration behind these?

A. The Pirate Boots were designed from memories of Johnny Kidd and The Pirates. I called the Gladiator Boots after Nero & The Gladiators who I use to see play on Hastings Pier Ballroom in the early 60s. The Zero Boots were named after the Japanese fighter airplane to fit with the Rock n’ Roll Suicide range which was inspired by WW11 in the Pacific.

Q. Behind every great man is a great woman. The collaboration between you and your wife Jill is legendary. What’s your favourite collection or piece of clothing you designed together and why?

A. The favourite items we did together are the white shirt with frills across the shoulders and down the sleeves Jill designed for Chrissie Hynde and the white waistcoat I designed and Jill made. Jill made both items. Both items appeared on The Pretenders L.P. cover.

Q. Favourite La Rocka! leather jacket you designed and why?

A. The favourite leather jacket I designed is The Original Tab Biker Jacket. It’s my favourite because it was the first one I designed and it was a massive success. It also looked great in loads of different colours of leathers. It worked so well and still does.

Collaborator Profile- Slim Jim Phantom

Slim Jim Phantom, the legendary drummer and rockabilly icon reflects on his neo-rockabilly style by answering 9 hot-fire questions before heading off on tour with his band the Stay Cats next week.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Q. Pre-forming the Stay Cats what was your scene, what was your style or a memorable outfit you’d wear?

A. Pre Stray Cats I was into mainly jazz and blues and I always loved the Beatles. I would always seek some kind of alternative clothing like an old fedora hat taken from an uncle's closet or one of my father’s neck ties and wear it with whatever else I had. I wore a referee’s shirt that was given to me while refereeing my sister’s soccer game with the aforementioned tie and hat.

Q. What influence would you say punk rock had on you?

A. Punk was good for the energy and it showed that styles could be combined. There was definitely some Eddie Cochran in there.

Q. In 1979 punk rock had run its course for kids like me and there was a moment where we didn’t know where to go when New Romantic, goth, disco and the soul scenes didn’t resonate. It was when I went to a rocking club, the St. Helier Arms in South London and saw kids still wearing their old punk T-shirts but with 1950s box jackets, chucker boots and pegs being the order of the day that I knew we’d found our new scene. Hair was no longer spiky but styled into bleached flat-tops or crazy-colour quiffs, what was your first rockabilly haircut?

A. My first rockabilly haircut was a big greasy pompadour. I was completely into the Elvis Presley look and style from the Sun Records era and anything I did was trying to achieve that look.

Q. Your gig at the Lyceum Ballroom 1981 was the epitome of the Stray Cats spearheading the rockabilly revival in London, is there anything about this gig or 1981 in London you can remember and your fans may be surprised to read?

A. 1981 was awesome! London was so happening and I was thrilled to be welcomed everywhere. An unintentional bonus of being in the Stray Cats was that we were embraced by all the different tribes. I went to every type of club and gig. I knew the doormen at every joint in town and went to every night of The Cash residency at the Lyceum that year. We also did a video with Dave Edmunds at the Cats soundcheck before one of our gigs there.

Q. Neo-rockabilly was a glamourised version of the rockabilly scene that had been before, we weren’t restricted to wearing only old (vintage) 50s clothing or homemade clothing like kids on the rocking scene would. Shops like Johnsons La Rocka! were designing almost caricature versions of clothing for rockers that could be styled with vintage clothing and looked amazing. What clothing shops did you shop at when in London?

A. I loved Johnson’s on Kings Rd, Lloyd is my close friend to this day. He thought we must be French rockers when he first saw us! I got a lot of stuff at Robot, especially shoes and also some great vintage pieces from Kavan at American Classics. My dear pal Peter Golding had Ace and 151 both very cool spots.

Q. Your not opposed to wearing gold leather. If you had to choose between a gold leather jacket and a black leather jacket, what would you choose and why?

A. Black is more classic and it goes with more outfits. That gold leather jacket definitely IS the outfit when you wear it.

Q. When you think of The London Leatherman what comes to mind?

A. The London Leatherman had that awesome leopard skin waistcoat! I wore it 1,000 times.

Q. Other than Elvis’ 68 Comeback Special look, who in your opinion is the best leather wearing rockabilly?

A. Gene Vincent really rocked the leathers!

Q. You’re about to head off on tour with the Stray Cats, what will you be wearing?

A. On the upcoming Stray Cats tour I'm going to wear a custom made classic western styled rockabilly suit. It's made of the best gabardine I could find and it’s got red diamond inlays with saddle stitch. It’s a shorter cut bolero style jacket. I’ll be sporting a few custom made sleeveless, cowboy shirts with coloured fringe made by my wife bassist and fashion designer Jennie Vee, red creepers and a bandana, of course!

SLIM JIM PHANTOM

Collaborator Profile- Marco Pirroni

No one quite knows clothes like Marco Pirroni knows clothes. He was dressing like a punk rocker before the term punk rock was coined, unintentionally influenced the New Romantic style and had a collection of clothing from the Kings Road in the 70s that most could only dream of. Marco and Dave Carroll have clocked up hundred of hours talking about clothes since they were introduced back in the 90s. He’s best known as the lead guitarist and co-song writer of Adam and the Ants.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Q. Do you remember buying any leather clothing or leather accessories on the Kings Road in the 70s?

A. Yes

Leather trousers 

T-shirt 

Jackets 

Wristbands 

Belts 

You name it!

Q. What’s your perspective on what a studded belt or studded wristband meant to a punk rocker?

A. The wristbands from SEX (430 Kings Road) were certainly a symbol of punkness.

Q, At what moment did you know you wanted to be a guitar player in a band? And who would you say have been your biggest inspirations, or influences on your career as a guitarist?

A. Soon as I heard Mick Ronson on Alladin Sane. I had been teaching myself at home, but it was that album that made me think of doing it seriously.

Q. Was there any other punk rocker you know of that was more into their clothes than you were? Someone who bought as much as you did, someone truly invested in buying and savoring their kit?

A. Lots of people.

Q. We had your collection of SEX & Seditonaries gear photographed in the 90s, these photos are somewhere, we must find them. Of everything you bought from Maclaren & Westwood what were you favourite pieces and why?

A. I loved the blue coat and pink loafers. The loafers fell apart.

Q. The London Leatherman accessories sold at SEX & Seditionaries were displayed on wooden gymnastics frames on the right as you entered the shop. How impactful was this display of leather accessories with studs and chains?

A. They added to the kinky rock and roll atmosphere.

Q. Who looked better in leather the rock’n rollers, glam rockers, punk rockers or the post-punk 80s scenes?

A. Dirk Bogarde.

Q. Did you ever go to the The London Leatherman shop on Queenstown Road?

A. Yes.

Q. A real punk rock piece of The London Leatherman clothing is the ciré wet look nylon (LN6) T-shirts that were sold to SEX, Seditionaries, Smutz, BOY, loads of shops with their own labels sewn in. In 1978 I had them in black and in navy blue. Did you have one? If yes, in what colour?

A. Yeah, everyone had them. I had a black and a red one.

Q. Shoes are your thing. What’s the best designed shoe in your opinion and why?

A. The Justin Roper boot.

Q. If you had to pick just one memorable look you’ve self styled, what was it (the clothes, accessories & shoes), when did you wear it and do you have a picture?

A. I can’t pick one, I also looked fucking stupid a lot of the time.

Collaborator Profile- Michael Costiff

Michael Costiff is the London face who’s inspired, influenced and worked alongside some of the most celebrated fashion industry greats. He’s the man behind the clothing boutique WORLD (and later WORLDArchive in Dover Street Market), he founded the club night Kinky Gerlinky with his late wife Gerlinde and in 2002 the V&A Museum monumentally acquired 178 outfits (almost 300 pieces) from their personal collection of clothing, referred to as The Costiff Collection.

In 2013 he released the retrospective book Michael and Gerlinde’s World: Pages From a Diary and he still owns his studded leather wristbands from when he was a punk rocker.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Q. You were a Kings Road mover and shaker in the 70s & 80s. What brought you to London and what was the catalyst that got you to gravitate towards and want to spend time on the Kings Road, Chelsea?

A. I come from a small (and then remote) village in the Peak District National Park in Derbyshire. I had a magical country childhood. I was always interested in fashion, art and music, so there was nothing of that for me there. I headed down to London (on the bus) to look for a job and on a beautiful sunny day in June 1969 I started work at I Was Lord Kitcheners Valet right in the heart of the Kings Road when the whole world was looking at Chelsea. Wow, it was so exciting, better than anything I ever imagined, all dolly birds, sports cars, Afghan coats, velvet loons, scarf-dresses....and bells!

Q. Before founding The London Leatherman Ken was the silent partner of Emmerton & Lambert the store in Chelsea Antique Market frequented by The Rolling Stones, The Small Faces and everyone who was anyone down the Kings Road. You ran a cafe in the Chelsea Antique Market? When was this and can you offer any insight to the atmosphere in the market at this time?

A. By 1971 I had a stall in Antiquarius in the Kings Road, but in 1972 we moved down the road and took over The Terrace Cafe in Chelsea Antique Market. Vern (Lambert) and Adrian (Emmerton) shared the top floor with us, although Adrian pulled out pretty soon after we arrived, and sort of disappeared? (*) Vern was an absolute genius and a lovely sweet and kind man and enviously knowledgeable. It really was the golden age of antiques and he was one of the first people to start selling antique and vintage fashion (it was unheard of before). He had the most amazing and beautiful stock, which I have never seen surpassed. I remember all those old Chelsea divas struggling up the stairs with armfuls of beaded dresses, exotic furs and embroidered robes to show Vern. We always had lots of fun every day with Ulla, Jenny Kee and Louise Doktor his glamourous staff and on sunny summer days our outside terrace was packed. Vern’s was a must visit destination for EVERYBODY who was happening on the scene at that time, and they all needed a coffee, so seeing people like Nureyev, Amanda Lear, Penelope Tree, Quentin Crisp, Verushca, Manalo Blahnik etc. everyday seemed quite normal. We had a blast!...We still stayed friends with Vern and Anna up until their deaths and even went to visit them in Italy.

(*Note for context: Adrian Emmerton was Ken’s boyfriend for 15+ years, he left the Emmerton & Lambert stall in the early 70s to start the clothing label South Sea Bubble Ltd. By 1971 Ken had already started The London Leatherman. Their time with Emmerton & Lambert was very much the 60s, the mid-60s being particularly electric with Ken making the clothes for the stall, we’re talking Jimmy Hendrix’s purple velvet trousers, Brian Jones’ cravat shirts...)

Q. As a punk rocker, did you ever wear any leather or studded leather? If yes, what? Where did you buy it and what in your opinion was the significance of wearing leather as a punk?

A. I was in my late twenties when Punk appeared, so hardly a "disaffected" youth, but I loved the fashions. I felt like a million dollars in my bondage suit. We snapped up loads from SEX and Seditionaries. We lived just down the road from Worlds End (and still do), so it was all going on right on our doorstep. Exciting times! Had lots of studded wristbands (still have them) but can’t remember where I bought them, probably Beaufort Market. The perfect accessory.

Q. You and your wife Gerlinde were prominent faces on the London club scene particularly in the 80s & 90s. I went to your club night Kinky Gerlinky a couple of times, one night it was for Planet Kinky where I was painted blue and dressed in a Star Trek outfit, looking nowhere near as outrageous as the other revelers. If you were to pick just one memorable night at Kinky Gerlinky, what was it and what did you wear?

A. Gerlinde and I were reluctant club promoters. What started as a party for friends grew into a monster. We ran the club from 1989 until 1994 and had a ball! We did 42 nights!

One Night that stands out was THE DAZZLE BALL at The Empire Ballroom, Leicester Square,with the biggest dancefloor in Europe. It was our Charity event for Aids charities and attracted 2,500 fun lovers. We had cabaret performances by Sinead O Connor, Neneh Cherry, Boy George, Nina Hagen, Nick Kamen and more. The atmosphere was so joyous and electric, a truly memorable night.

When I look back I realise what a huge operation it was, how did we do all that? But everybody was up for it, so it seemed easy.

Q. What club night, other than your own, was your favourite and why?

A. The first London club night we went to was Yours & Mine at the Sombrero in Kensington High Street. We went out a lot. Billy’s, Hell, Maunkberry, Blitz, Cha Cha, The Embassy, Camden Palace, Wag, Taboo, Daisy Chain, Queer Nation...lots of good times.

Q. Your shop WORLD was fantastic, what comes to mind for me is that it was a shop where high-brow street culture from all over the world collided with rave. How do you synopsize WORLD to anyone just discovering it?

A. Attached are a couple of press pieces about WORLD....I think they tell you enough.

Q. There’s no getting away from your style icon status. What would you say is the most significant look you’ve self-styled? The clothing, accessories and shoes worn. When did you wear it, why does it resonate and do you have a photo?

A. The clothes that Rei Kowakubo (Comme des Garçons) designed for me to model in her Paris Catwalk show.

2007, Michael Costiff wearing clothes designed for him by Rei Kowakubo of Comme des Garçons. Photographer Junichiro Tokumasu.

Q. Portobello Market on a Friday, what does it or what did it mean to you?

A. I think I’ve been going there ever since I arrived in London and still do. You can still always find something and I know I will always bump into people I know. Strolling down the market on a sunny day is always a pleasure.

Q. Who would you say has been the biggest inspiration or influence on your career in fashion and culture thus far?

A. I like good manners and kindness. I’m always attracted to people who do their own thing, no matter how wacky, I like positive energy.

Q. Are you currently working on any projects you can disclose here?

A. I like to be busy so I always have lots of projects going on, but never "go public" until they are complete.

Studded wristbands ‘The perfect accessory.’ Michael Costiff a Kings Road resident took this photo of Vivienne Westwood inside her shop Seditionaries, 430 Kings Road, with The London Leatherman wristbands and armbands displayed in cabinet.