Collaborator Profile- Richard Walker

The artist Richard Walker took a series of photographs in 1975 that include rare images of inside The London Leatherman shop in Battersea and Vivienne Westwood & Malcolm McLaren’s boutique SEX at 430 Kings Road. Jordan Mooney referred to a photograph Richard took of her at this time as being one of her favourites.

Best known for his painting, graphic art, murals and prints Richards’s next show will be at Coningsby Gallery in London this summer, 2024.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Interior of 430 Kings Road with The London Leatherman product displayed on the left. Photo by artist Richard Walker, 1975.

Q. Richard, in 1975 you visited both the shops SEX and The London Leatherman to take photographs. Why and how did you come to take these pictures, especially The London Leatherman one’s, which are so rare when Ken was pretty strict on not allowing pictures in the shop?

A. I was in my 2nd year at Camberwell School of Art and we had been set a journalistic photography project called ‘Secret London’, so I went in the car with my tutor who was also head of department and a kindred spirit. She had previously spotted The London Leatherman on Queenstown Rd that looked interesting, but thought it was a private club. Meanwhile I had seen SEX on the King’s Rd and also thought it was private. So we went to investigate. Somehow we managed to get to take photos, I think we explained it was a personal project and it worked. However, I’ve mislaid the Leatherman images, but hopefully they’ll pop up when I stop looking!

Q. How did you come to discover The London Leatherman shop? What do you remember about it?

A. The London Leatherman with it’s wooden frontage and small window stood out in amongst its fairly humdrum neighbours. It was immediately appealing with it’s dark interior and fish tanks, if I remember. It was like a nightclub and because this was only 1975 it seemed quite extreme for the time.

Q. You’ve captured a pivotal time in fashion history with the 1975 photographs and you really had to have some guts walking into both of these shops, let alone go in and take pictures. How did you find the experience? Intimidating? Or not that big of a deal because it was pre- the hype surrounding punk rock?

A. Initially it was intimidating, but I liked that. I encountered Jordan and admired her defiant attitude, but I detected a vulnerability too. This is what she liked about the picture I took. It did feel like we were entering into a parallel universe. A little dangerous and claustrophobic. Even at that time I started to sense a shift in the culture and I was excited and ready for it. I’m not sure if I even knew the word ‘subculture’ at that time.

Q. Did you get anything from The London Leatherman or from SEX? Is there anything you wish you had?

A. As I was a student and didn’t have much money at the time, I only ever had one T-shirt from SEX the one with the ranting text all about ‘which side of the bed you were on’! God only knows what happened to it. I think it just disintegrated in some sweaty club somewhere. I was never really a punk, but used the energy to create my own persona.

Self portrait by Richard Walker taken in 1975/76 ‘This is what I call my ‘proto-punk’ period. As soon as punk went mainstream I abandoned that look.’ Richard’s wearing a The London Leatherman made ciré T-shirt in black.

Q. What’s your opinion on the association The London Leatherman had with the leather scene, gay interest and the new sexual liberation of the 70s?

A. As I was only 20 at the time, I had yet to embark on my gay adventures and as it was only 1975 the choices were limited, even in London. However these 2 venues certainly signaled there was a whole world waiting for me, so yes, 2 important cornerstones in the new era just about to start… couldn’t wait really...

Q. How would you say the mid-70s impacted your life and career as an artist?

A. Yes, a huge impact. It was how I developed my individual style. I became a bit of a rebel at college and rejected the course work, much to the dismay of my tutors. I was on a mission, and I saw my opportunity and I took it. I finally won them all over, mainly with my work ethic and dedication. Unbelievably they offered me a job as a visiting lecturer, which proved to me there was something in the air and things were changing. This period of development has been crucial to most of what I have done since.

Q. If you were to choose just one of your photographs from this time, which one speaks to you the most and why?

A. I think it would have to be my one of Jordan, mainly for the reasons above, but also because it communicates to people and is a document of it’s time

Jordan Mooney wearing her The London Leatherman LW3 studded wristband cuffs. Photo by Richard Walker, 1975

Q. Other than the SEX and The London Leatherman photographs, are there any other sub-culture references you’ve observed, documented or photographed as an artist?

A. Yes, many. At the end of ‘75 Patti Smith released ‘Horses’ and I felt immediately we had all been waiting for a bold statement like this. Up to then we had had Lou Reed and David Bowie celebrating the demi-monde and alternative lifestyles, but this felt new. The Warhol set had been hiding in plain site for several years ...influencing those in the know, but now we had a fresh input of new artists with new sounds and new imagery. I thought that the gay scene could merge with all this, as we were essentially all part of subcultures, which over the decades are now in the mainstream

Q. What can you share about your show this summer at the Coningsby Gallery?

A. Yes, indeed it’s the next instalment of my personal odyssey, the show is called ‘Revolutions Per Minute’ a title suggesting music, politics, fashion, the passing of time and the continuing forward propulsion of ideas. There’ll be key works from all periods to accompany a talk I’m giving called ‘Titian Licked My Ankle’ a virtual memoir, in reality a spoken word set of stories from my long career to celebrate my 70th birthday.

‘Henry the Horse’ 1978 limited edition screen print from Richards 1979 exhibition ‘Twilight Zones’ at Thumb Gallery Soho, London.

Richard Walker (@richardwalkerworks) • Instagram photos and videos

The legend of The London Leatherman Head Mask, LW11 & LW19

Adam Ant wore his onstage. Malcolm McLaren & Vivienne Westwood put a picture of it on a T-Shirt. Sylvain Sylvain (New York Dolls) owned one in silver leather.

The leather Head Mask is a garment that featured consistently in The London Leatherman ‘Exotica’ mail order catalogues from 1971 through to the 1990s, available predominately in black leather it was also offered in silver and in red leather too.

The new for 2021 LW19 Head Mask

Page from the The London Leatherman ‘Exotica’ Catalogue 1974 featuring the LW11 & LW19 mask with detachable blindfold.

A true underground fetish item that clients would order from Ken (Heddle Magson) discretely, until, like many The London Leatherman designed items it made its way into the public eye, taking on a life of it’s own in the mid-1970s, a life that included being worn on stage by Adam Ant for his first gig at the ICA in May 1977 in London and being featured on T-shirts designed by Malcolm McLaren & Vivienne Westwood that are today held in the V&A and The Met Museum collections (scroll to bottom of page for pictures).

Here we wanted to address the legend that follows The London Leatherman mask, the association to the boutique SEX, the influence it had on Malcolm McLaren & Vivienne Westwood and Alan Selby (who later founded Mr. S Leather) and the implications that a The London Leatherman mask was worn by the convicted criminal named by the press as the Cambridge rapist. We feel the best way to do this is to share with you the article that featured in the Sunday Mirror in 1975. See the scan and relevant text below:

Page 4. Sunday Mirror, May 11, 1975

By George Martin, Terry Willows and Chris Hampson.

The trail of the Cambridge rapist led last week to the world of London’s ‘kinky gear’ shops.

There on Friday, Sunday Mirror reporters bought two black leather hoods from separate shops. Identical to the one worn by the rapist. Not many of these masks have been sold in Britain and police believe that the Cambridge maniac bought his mask from one of the same sources.

The man who makes the sinister hoods is 37 year old Heddle Magson. He runs a shop called The London Leatherman in Queenstown Road, Battersea.

He supplies them to two shops in Chelsea, as well as running an export and mail order business. Mr. Magson estimates that he has sold about 100 since Christmas.

The hoods cost £10.25 each- with or without a zip across the mouth- complete with detachable Lone Ranger type eye masks. These hoods cover the head, with eye slits, a shaped nose space, mouth slit and laces up the back. Mr. Magson, tall and slim with a ring in his left ear, said: “I’ve already had the police here. I gave them two names. I went through the records for them. I didn’t let them go through my files. I have a kind of doctor relationship with my clients. I treat my business with confidentiality.” One of our hoods was brought from Magson’s shop and with it he gave us two brochures.

One- Exotica- consists of bizarre leatherwear.

Mr. Magson said “The names I gave to police were of clients in the Cambridge area.”

Does Mr. Magson not worry that he may unwittingly be selling such equipment to mentally unbalanced people such as the rapist?

He replied: “How does one make that judgement?”

‘Normal guy’

“He doesn’t have two heads and five legs. In genuine circumstances he could be an absolutely normal guy.”

One of the other shops selling the hood, in Kings Road, Chelsea, simply has the word “SEX” in 3ft.- high mauve letters above the door.

The manager, Mr. Michael Collins, said: “I have sold a dozen hoods in eight months. I can’t remember much about most of the people. But there was one chap who bought one a couple of months ago. He was short and dressed in a black leather jacket, dark trousers and black boots. He was carrying a motor-cyclist’s crash helmet. Last week he came in again and bought a rubber hood with no eye slits and only a rubber tube to breathe through the mouth.”

Half a mile away at another shop in New Kings Road, Mr. Alan Selby said: “I know most of my customers personally. One is a millionaire and managing director of one of the best know firms in the land. I’ve met his wife too. They use my gear for their private sex. I have never, as far as I know, sold a mask to someone from the Cambridge area.” ….. (end text).

The London Leatherman LW11 Head Mask made front page news in May 1975. It was thought at the time that the criminal may have worn a LLM mask, he didn’t.

Adam Ant wearing The London Leatherman LW19 Head Mask and The London Leatherman LB9 Ring Clipper Bikini with Zip, May 1977.

Michael Collins, Manager of the boutique SEX as interviewed for the Sunday Mirror newspaper wearing a version of the T-shirt designed by McLaren & Westwood featuring the LW19 Head Mask. Photographer Homer Sykes

Steve Jones (right) wearing the T-shirt by Maclaren & Westwood featuring image of The London Leatherman Head Mask LW19 in Oslo 1977. Steve is also wearing The London Leatherman jeans. Photographer Henrik Laurvik.

Photo credit: Christie’s. The LW19 Head Mask in silver leather, once owned by Sylvain Sylvain.

Today we produce both the LW11 (zip mouth) and the LW19 (soft lip) Head Masks hand made to the same specifications as the mask offered in 1975 with upgraded detailing for 2023.

The Head Masks are available to order via WWW.THELONDONLEATHERMAN.COM

A Tribute To Jordan

News circulated rapidly when model, actress and pin-up of punk rock Jordan Mooney (Pamela Rooke) passed away this week. An immense loss to all who knew her, which has left us, like so many, reflecting on the incredible life she led.

A paramount figure in The London Leatherman’s history and recent history, here we pay tribute to Jordan by celebrating some of the incredible imagery she created, looks she self styled and moments in fashion history that have influenced and inspired so many and will continue to for generations to come.

Our deepest sympathy goes out to Jordan’s family, friends and to the many whose lives she touched.

One of the key icons to pioneer the fusion of hard-core fetish with fashion, Jordan was often photographed wearing The London Leatherman LW3 Cuffs as seen in this photograph by Richard Walker (1975). Can we also take a moment to acknowledge Jordan’s black eye make-up, a look that Julia Fox/ Kanye & Pat McGrath have made so famous in 2022 #jordandiditfirst

Is Jordan the most photographed shop girl of all time? Certainly not just a ‘shop girl’ Jordan’s career catapulted into all sorts of creative avenues the moment she started working with Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren. Here she is sitting between two busts displaying The London Leatherman LW26 Body Harness and LB13 Narrow Back Bikini in cire fabric (circa 1975).

Words by Jordan Mooney, for Another Man Magazine in 2020. You can read the full article here: Five People on Why They Love Wearing The London Leatherman | AnotherMan (anothermanmag.com)

Jordan’s leather cape and skirt (mentioned above) made by Ken (Heddle Magson) The London Leatherman. Her LLM items being particularly rare with SEX labels sewn in. Photo credit: Kerry Taylor Auctions

Jordan pictured here wearing her The London Leatherman skirt (SEX labelled) with Malcolm McLaren wearing his The London Leatherman LG2 Jeans.

Jordan with Dee Dee Ramone.

Jordan photographed in Berlin 2018 by Martyn Goodacre. Wearing a vintage La Rocka! jacket, anyone recognize the belt? #askingforafriend

Photographed in 2019 by Etienne Gilfillan, for an interview with Mark Wardel. Jordan wears AKA Six Clothing with a P&C (The London Leatherman) Pistols Cuff.

The London Leatherman LM2 wristbands and custom P&C Galaxy cuffs were her thing. Photo circa 2020.

A Brief Biography of Ken- The London Leatherman

The origins of The London Leatherman label

Ken was born in 1938 in Worthing, West Sussex, England. We refer to him as Ken as this is how he would introduce himself and the name he used for much of his adult life, his real name is Heddle Law Magson.

The eldest with two younger brothers Trevor and Mel, Ken was immersed in creativity and crafts from a very early age. One of the earliest influences being the time spent sheltering from air raids during WWII with his mother under the stairs, they would spend hours and hours doing needle work, she taught him how to knit and sew.

In 1956 Ken was one of the last groups of men to be drafted into the army, he signed up to the RAF and trained for three years as a chef. His interest in ice-skating and theatre developed during this time and when stationed in Cyprus he played the character Widow Twankee in a pantomime performance of Aladdin. However, his time with the RAF was cut short when letters he wrote to his boyfriend of the time were intercepted resulting in him being court martialled and sentenced to 3 years in HS Prison Wormwood Scrubs (he served 18 months).

Ken served his time and moved to London in time for the Swinging Sixties. For the first few years he worked as a chef at The Dorchester on Park Lane and for a flying club near Hyde Park and one of his first forays into clothing was somehow being able to acquire sailor’s trousers. He would peg the trousers in from waist to knee, letting them out from the knee into bell bottoms. He sold these to boutiques in London in the mid 60s.

Towards the late sixties is when Ken’s reputation for leather work and fetish wear developed, his work being sort out by both the underground fetish scene and the fashion elite on the Kings Road in Chelsea. Self-taught his cut of leather trousers were designed for fetish, style and motorcycle riding, previous to this you could only get motorcycle trousers that were baggy and fashion trousers that were either too tight or too light weight for motorcycling. He would work with terry towelling and sheer ciré fabric too making shoulder enhancing cap sleeved t-shirts and tank tops with matching men’s underwear and shorts in the same fabric.

During this time the leather accessories he designed and made such as studded wristbands, studded belts, leather underwear and masks were considered much too outrageous to display and he wouldn’t make them readily available to the public until well after the Sexual Offences Act 1967 was granted preventing the discrimination of sexual activity between men and in-turn the gay revolution that followed this. Designing and making the clothing and accessories he did was not only considered extremely outrageous for the time but was dangerous too, Ken and his customers risked being arrested or even attacked by disgruntled members of the public if word got to the wrong people.

Come the early 70s the gay revolution was in full swing and Kens designs were in very high demand, not only in England and Europe but on the East and West Coast of America too, so Ken opened The London Leatherman shop, showroom and workshop on Queenstown Road in the early 1970s. It was no longer illegal for him to display his designs so he made sure the façade of his shop was something passes by couldn’t miss. He turned the Victorian shop front into what can be described as a mysterious Swedish sauna design of slatted woodwork with a single, small glass window displaying studded accessories and men’s underwear and The London Leatherman logo emblazoned across the front, built by his brother Trevor Magson.

Even though it was legal many gay and straight customers still wanted to shop anonymously meaning his mail order catalogues were a pinnacle part of his business. At first he hand drew the entire catalogue himself with a detailed description of the item and a code for customers to use for reference. Many items from these first catalogues remained available and featured in all catalogues released into the 80s. He used a number of artists to create the catalogue artwork over the years.

With the gay revolution came the attention from other shop keepers and businesses looking to sell his designs. They would order what Ken had to offer and if they ordered enough he would sew their labels in or often no label. Many The London Leatherman items were sold in Chelsea boutiques such as Granny Takes A Trip, Mr. Freedom, Let It Rock, Sex and Seditionaries which has led to many fashion historians mis-crediting Ken’s designs as being by others such as Vivienne Westwood or Malcolm McClaren. The items sold in these boutiques feature in The London Leatherman 'Exotica' & 'Leather Wear' catalogues from the time, we refer particularly to the famous The London Leatherman leather mask popularized by Malcolm McClaren with a t-shirt . Whilst McClaren did sell a few of the masks in his Kings Road shop Malcolm also bought the mask to give to a number musicians he worked with including Sylvain Sylvain from the New York Dolls and Adam Ant for his first gig at the ICA. The London Leatherman leather t-shirt with side zip is a very early design by Ken and sold in all of the above mentioned Kings Road boutiques, as with his ciré fabric t-shirts. The London Leatherman t-shirts crossed into a number of sub cultures from fetish, soul boy, punk rock to disco.

From 1972 The London Leatherman supplied Alan Selby’s shop on the New Kings Road with all his leather clothing and accessories. Selby moved to the USA in 1979 when soon after Ken received word that someone was manufacturing The London Leatherman 'Exotica' designs out there thinking Ken would never find out. But Ken never missed a beat in business and swiftly got on a plane to the States with associates to correct the situation.

A keen motorcyclists Ken would ride around London, mostly preferring his BMW’s. This was a secret he kept from his family as just after his 16th birthday he had a motorcycle accident and vowed never to ride again. He liked fast cars owning a Simca, Carmen Ghia and Triumph GT6. In the 70s he upholstered the interior of his Rolls Royce himself with leather.

For many years Ken lived above The London Leatherman shop in his flat on the top two floors. He later moved to his house on Alfriston Road on Clapham Common with his partner in life also named Ken and his Alsatian Sheba. In the 60s he had an Alsatian named Simba.

Ken collected exotic and tropical fish for his very large wall feature fish tank he installed in The London Leatherman showroom in the 70s and positioned just behind the till. He also had a passion for model steam boats and power racing on the Serpentine lake, of which he won many trophies.

When not working with leather, Ken would often exercise his talent for drawing, painting and needle work. His paintings and tapestries are some of the most cherished items owned by those who knew him.

Words contributed by Mel Magson, Trevor Magson, Yvonne Magson, Dave Carroll.