Paul ‘Spiv’ Smith, is as his name suggests, a wheeler and dealer with a knack for sourcing rare punk rock and post punk clothing and paraphernalia, we have a couple of items in the The London Leatherman archive sourced by Paul. Paul and Dave are bonded by the London nightclubs they both went to in the 80s and the designers they wore during that era.
Questions by Bridget Veal Carroll
Q. You and Dave went to a lot of the same nightclubs and venues on the 80s and wore a lot of the same designers. What clubs? What designers? Do you remember each other/ have any fond memories of this time?
A. In the late 70’s early 80’s I frequented many of the “in” shops: Seditionaries, Johnson’s La Rocka!, Beaufort Market, The Great Gear Market, Kensington Market, Boy, The Last Resort and Worlds End to name a few.
I became friends with Dave (and Bridget) on a chance meeting at the Groucho club around 10 years ago now. We realised that we had attended the same shops, gigs, clubs in the past without actually ever meeting.
Clubs included The Mud Club, The Dirt Box, The Wag …... In the 80’s, the list of clubs was as long as your arm.
We also realised we were interested is the same music, clothes and “Punk Rock” fashion or anti fashion depending how you view it….…(and of course the vintage toys). Our friendship grew from then on.
Paul ‘Spiv’ Smith’s collection of vintage The London Leatherman clothing. Photos courtesy Paul Smith.
Q. The items you come across in your work are impressive. How would you describe what you do and the genre of material you collect/deal-in?
A. The best way to describe it is that I pick up pieces and items on my travels and find them a new home.
As a kid, I was a “swapper” of my toys: Action Men, Major Matt Mason, skateboards, gum cards etc and loved all U.S. Toys. As a 60’s child, all the toys that passed through my hands, TV, Film and Sci Fi related items seem to have become very desirable. I rarely threw stuff away including my Punk Rock clothes, which in later years have become highly collectible.
Q. The London Leatherman archive of clothing and accessories is vast. However, sourcing items from the old catalogues or items worn by people of significance are key for many collectors. What tips do you have for collectors or those looking to start collecting vintage The London Leatherman?
For me, in recent years I’ve just happened to come across pieces. But, in the 70s a friend had a The London Leatherman 3 row pyramid studded wrist band which he bought from Seditionaries. I hounded and pestered him for it and I eventually swapped it for my copy of Anarchy in the UK on EMI. (Not sure what that’s worth today). I then managed to get the matching belt from him. I later bought a leather cap from Frisco Leathers in the Great Gear Market (it was less of a walk down the Kings Road.) I’m not sure if Ken supplied them as well.
In those days I was totally unaware just how relevant The London Leatherman was to the scene. Looking back now I have come to realise the importance of The London Leatherman. Retrospectively is seems that anybody who was anybody wore “The Kit” at some point.
Q. You’ve had quite a lot of vintage The London Leatherman pieces over the years, do any of these pieces stick out for you? And why?
A. Over the years I’ve acquired various vintage items for the Pride & Clarke and The London Leatherman archives and am always on the hunt for absolutely anything that catches my eye.
“One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.”
