Collaborator Profile- Smeg

Smeg, he’s the lead singer of the psychobilly band King Kurt, has big hair and a big grin and we’d describe Smegs style as Lee Marvin meets Gene Vincent, Smeg knows his kit. Smeg and Dave have been friends since the early 80s, the first time they met Smeg was wearing a McLaren Westwood ‘F*** Your Mother’ Seditionaries T-shirt.

Questions by Bridget Veal Carroll

Q. Leather and rock’n’roll, they go hand in hand, do you have any leather wearing rock’n’ rollers you consider a style icon? And why?

A. As you’ve already mentioned, Gene Vincent is surely the best leather clad icon, he had it all, style, the voice, the moves. But, also The Sex Pistols influenced me greatly in my teens and I always wanted the same leather strides, I bought a pair at age 60! Too old? Never for leather.

Q. You were a punk rocker before becoming one of the pioneers of the Psychobilly genre in the early 80s. How would you articulate the transition from Punk Rock to Psychobilly?

A. The Cramps, The Cramps were the transition. For me at the time I was into Rock’a’Billy and into Punk Rock, I was wearing Seditionaries bondage trousers but with 1950s jackets and a bright red flat top (hair style). And the Cramps, they summed up everything in their song Garbage Man ‘One half hillbilly and one half punk’ this made perfect sense to me, this was Psychobilly.

Q. In 2010 you invited Dave and I down to a King Kurt gig in Islington, my first time experiencing King Kurt. Pre-show people kept rolling their eyes at me, saying ‘ooh, you shouldn’t have worn that/ those shoes are going to get ruined/ do you not know what goes on at a King Kurt show’!  For anyone that doesn’t know who King Kurt are, how do you describe the band to them?

A. You should’ve seen the mess in the 80s, we were banned from everywhere! Our music is good time Rhythm & Blues/ Rock’n’Roll/ Country/ Punk with its feet in the dirt (literally, in those days). We f***ed ourselves in the a*se though with the ‘highbrow’ music press for not having a political agenda. Our aim was and still is to have a good night out.

Q. Many people know King Kurt for your performance of ‘Destination Zulu Land’ on the British television show Top Of The Pops in 1983. How was this experience for you?

A. TOTP was a dream come true, it was the biggest music show for everyone of my generation. We were there from 8am doing what we did best, getting wasted! We hung out with UB40 for a bit (I still had one!) and I managed to upset one of the presenters -DLT a very rude, humorless twat. Like most ‘funny’ people he didn’t like being on the receiving end of a joke. We signed our contract with Stiff Records that day in the studio, then hopped on a train to Leeds for a gig. A good day out.

Q. Yours and Dave’s friendship covers many mutual interests from clothing to motorcycles, bully breed dogs to music. Do you remember the earlier years of how you met? Any fond memories?

A. Some memories are best left in the haze of history! But I can say we’ve done some crazy sh*t together over the years!

Q. There’s a legendary story I’ve heard of you going into Seditionaries and Jordan dressing you. How did this come about?

A. I was 16 and just got my first pay cheque, so went to Seditionaries to spend it. Jordan (Mooney aka Pamela Rooke) and I used to have a mutual friend who would pass messages to her from me and on this occasion Vivienne (Westwood) and Jordan were in the shop, they got me dressed in a full outfit and I stood in front of the mirror and declared ‘you’d f*** me!’ whilst fake masturbating. They were in stitches (laughing) and people were being brought in off the street to witness the spectacle! Vivienne gave me a parachute shirt, I was over the moon. Years later, I lent it to someone and never saw it again. But, I used to save up and buy loads of the stuff and had quite a bit in the end, sadly all was lost in a house fire during the 1984 Riots in Brixton.

(Left) Smeg wears Sir Tom Baker Sequined Tux Jacket with The London Leatherman 1976 Leather Jeans and Pistols Belt. (Middle) Smeg in the 80s with his exaggerated Psychobilly quiff, photo by Patrick Gilbert. (Right) Smeg wearing his The London Leatherman Leather Jeans styled with Pistols Belt, Lewis Leathers Jacket & Burberry Coat.

Q. A couple of years back you self-styled a The London Leatherman look fused with the legendary tailoring of Sir Tom Baker. How would you describe this look?

A. I’ve paired my The London Leatherman 1976 Leather Jeans with Tom’s Sequined Tux Jacket, a frock coat he made for me and what is called The Gutter To Gala Suit which is a kind of punk rock/ The Sex Pistols/ Johnny Rotten inspired thing.

Tom loves punk rock too.

Q. Do you have any favourite The London Leatherman pieces?

A. I love my leather jeans. But, the LV4 Jeans Style Jacket is one of my faves, I love my Pistols Belt too, the leather jeans are never worn without it!

Q. Are you working on any projects for 2023 you can disclose/ talk about?

A. I’ve got a new suit on the bubble with Tom and with the band we’re rehearsing regularly with a view of producing something new. Shows start in mid-May in Lewes and there’s a London show on June 23rd at The Underworld in Camden.

Collaborator Profile- Paul ‘Spiv’ Smith

Paul ‘Spiv’ Smith, is as his name suggests, a wheeler and dealer with a knack for sourcing rare punk rock and post punk clothing and paraphernalia, we have a couple of items in the The London Leatherman archive sourced by Paul. Paul and Dave are bonded by the London nightclubs they both went to in the 80s and the designers they wore during that era.

Questions by Bridget Veal Carroll

Q. You and Dave went to a lot of the same nightclubs and venues on the 80s and wore a lot of the same designers. What clubs? What designers? Do you remember each other/ have any fond memories of this time?

A. In the late 70’s early 80’s I frequented many of the “in” shops: Seditionaries, Johnson’s La Rocka!, Beaufort Market, The Great Gear Market, Kensington Market, Boy, The Last Resort and Worlds End to name a few.

I became friends with Dave (and Bridget) on a chance meeting at the Groucho club around 10 years ago now. We realised that we had attended the same shops, gigs, clubs in the past without actually ever meeting.  

Clubs included The Mud Club, The Dirt Box, The Wag …... In the 80’s, the list of clubs was as long as your arm. 

We also realised we were interested is the same music, clothes and “Punk Rock” fashion or anti fashion depending how you view it….…(and of course the vintage toys). Our friendship grew from then on.

Paul ‘Spiv’ Smith’s collection of vintage The London Leatherman clothing. Photos courtesy Paul Smith.

Q. The items you come across in your work are impressive. How would you describe what you do and the genre of material you collect/deal-in?

A. The best way to describe it is that I pick up pieces and items on my travels and find them a new home.

As a kid, I was a “swapper” of my toys: Action Men, Major Matt Mason, skateboards, gum cards etc and loved all U.S. Toys. As a 60’s child, all the toys that passed through my hands, TV, Film and Sci Fi related items seem to have become very desirable. I rarely threw stuff away including my Punk Rock clothes, which in later years have become highly collectible. 

Q. The London Leatherman archive of clothing and accessories is vast. However, sourcing items from the old catalogues or items worn by people of significance are key for many collectors. What tips do you have for collectors or those looking to start collecting vintage The London Leatherman?

For me, in recent years I’ve just happened to come across pieces. But, in the 70s a friend had a The London Leatherman 3 row pyramid studded wrist band which he bought from Seditionaries. I hounded and pestered him for it and I eventually swapped it for my copy of Anarchy in the UK on EMI. (Not sure what that’s worth today). I then managed to get the matching belt from him. I later bought a leather cap from Frisco Leathers in the Great Gear Market (it was less of a walk down the Kings Road.) I’m not sure if Ken supplied them as well.

In those days I was totally unaware just how relevant The London Leatherman was to the scene. Looking back now I have come to realise the importance of The London Leatherman. Retrospectively is seems that anybody who was anybody wore “The Kit” at some point.

Q. You’ve had quite a lot of vintage The London Leatherman pieces over the years, do any of these pieces stick out for you? And why?

A. Over the years I’ve acquired various vintage items for the Pride & Clarke and The London Leatherman archives and am always on the hunt for absolutely anything that catches my eye.

“One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.”