Talking About The Kit- Alan Jones

Anyone with even an inkling of interest for British fashion history will recognise Alan Jones from the 1976 photographs taken by David Dagley inside Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s shop SEX, he’s the young blonde in red trousers wearing The London Leatherman studded wristbands and the PERV (spelt out with chicken bones) T-shirt Vivienne made for him. Today he’s an international film critic, author, broadcaster, journalist, a director of the horror genre film festivals FrightFest & Trieste S+F and this year will be releasing his memoirs.

Questions by Bridget Veal

Alan Jones pictured here, third from the left, in David Dagley’s photograph from 1976.

Q. Alan, 2024 is the year you’re releasing your memoirs, an autobiography so many with an interest in subcultures are eager to get their hands on. Without giving too much away how do you synopsize the book? And how have you found the experience?

A: ‘Discomania’ is the title of what I’m calling a semi-autobiography. While I was inner-circle Sex Pistols/ Bromley contingent, I was also heavily into the Disco scene. I found I had more pick-up success in the Earls Court clubs (Catacombs) and pubs (The Colherne) than in the Punk environment. The book begins with how I easily went from working in Vivienne and Malcolm’s SEX shop to cruising the Chelsea streets. I then review 105 disco movies from THE MACK (1973) to THE BEAST IN THE JUNGLE (2023), say why they are Disco important, give a rundown of what Disco music they feature, have interviews with my top Disco star producers of the day and what memories, either from a date or subject point of view they spark about my Punk years, from my T-shirt arrest, first Pistols gigs and the ‘God Save the Queen’ boat party to my role in THE GREAT ROCK ‘N’ ROLL SWINDLE (1980), my friendship with Sid Vicious and advising director Alex Cox on SID & NANCY (1986). For the first time I tell those stories from my angle, rather than read what others have said in their own books on the subject. So what you get is in depth reviews of the movies - obviously I deal with SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER (1977), CAN’T STOP THE MUSIC (1980) etc. but it’s the lesser known gems I wanted to bring to to people’s attention like the Argentine LA DISCOTECA DEL AMOR (1980) and the Italian JOHN TRAVOLTO…DA UN INSOLITO DESTINO (1979) and my insider info on my days working in SEX. The book will be published by FAB Press in July 2024 with a launch at the Fantasia Festival in Montreal, Canada, where I am also curating a Disco movie season including the new Severin 4K restoration of THE MUSIC MACHINE (1979), considered the British answer to SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER.

Q. Your sartorial choices in 1975 through to 1977 are an inspiration for an unmentionable number of designers and fashion houses with your picture having been on studio mood boards for over 45 years now. How would you describe your style back then? Any favourite looks you self-styled?

A: Anything Vivienne designed I wore. I loved the LET IT ROCK pop star silk screens, the ones with names in glitter and the nude playing card plastic windows. The bondage trousers were fabulous, still my favourite Vivienne design. Sometimes I can’t believe I would walk down the street in the Anarchy shirt complete with swastika, the first Pistols group T-shirt with the naked underage boy, the fist-fucking Tom of Finland shirt or the Cambridge Rapist side-tie. It was the 1970s, everything was a ‘fuck off’ to the establishment whether from a sexuality point of view, a political one or a fashion statement. And Vivienne’s scum manifesto shirts said it all. One of my favourite self-styled looks was first covering my torso with fake blood (I knew many make-up artists at the time because I was just starting out in my horror journalism career), applied with a hypodermic syringe, then I put Vivienne’s see-through pink nylon T shirt over the top, slightly smudging the blood, so I looked like I’d just come from an S&M orgy. I lost count of the time people in cars would slow down and offer me a lift!

Q. You’ve held on to many pieces of clothing and accessories from your time as a founding punk rocker, for instance you still have the The London Leatherman wristbands you bought from SEX (430 Kings Road). Of these items are there any you have a particular affection for?

A: Sadly the PERV shirt, spelt out in chicken bones, and the one Vivienne exclusively designed for me, eventually crumbled to dust. I kept the Tom of Finland shirt (aka Two Cowboys) too mainly because I still can’t believe I actually fitted into it, and I have one of the rare ‘Holidays in the Sun’ handkerchiefs, mainly because I stole it from Pistol Steve Jones as he used to wear it knotted on his head like Northern geezers on the Blackpool beaches. I kept all the The London Leatherman accessories mainly because I wore them long after I left the punk scene. They had another 20 years of life in them on the gay scene. Talk about value for money!

Q. I’d love to know your perspective on how leather became part of the punk rock look? And why you and your peers wore studded leather?

A: I’ve said this many times before but Vivienne was so ahead of the curve in many aspects of fashion. The moment she designed the bondage trousers and then brought in the The London Leatherman wristbands to complete the look, without really thinking about it she crystalised the gay clone look that still perpetuates to this day. I was one of the Village People before that Disco act was even minted by producer Jacques Morali.

Q. In 1977 you and your friend made a fabric version of The London Leatherman LW11 Zip Mouth Mask to wear to a Sex Pistols gig. What do you remember about the leather mask? And the impact it had being in the shop SEX?

A: It was made for the seminal Pistols gig at the El Paradise club in Soho. Essentially I asked my clothes designer best friend Jean Seal to construct a cloth version mainly because I knew wearing the actual leather version was going to be so hot while carrying out my DJ duties. I did a dummy run and the sweat just poured off my face and became a neck fountain! On that particular night I took money at the door of the club, helped the band backstage and then turned DJ before their set started. Jean is one of the unsung heroines of the 1970s. She had designed a onesie outfit for me to wear at a pop star wedding (The Faces, Tetsu married my friend Vanessa) and she was the first person I thought of to sew the mask. In truth, apart from being a visual punchline, I don’t think the mask resonated with punks, perhaps it was too far into the hardcore gay scene than they liked?

Q. What memories do you have of The London Leatherman and the items McLaren and Westwood bought to stock in their shops?

A: The studded accessories were there, we sold them. I wish I could tell you more but I had nothing to do with either acquiring them or ordering them. I was only a lowly sales assistant, all that was left to the far more capable Jordan.

Q. You’ve carved a long and successful career around your enthusiasm for film, in particular horror. Is there a film that ignited this initial interest? Or a film that has significantly impacted your life and career?

A: Horror fans will know the two stories I’m about to relate. The first X certificate horror film I ever saw was Mario Bava’s BLOOD AND BLACK LACE (1964), which is now considered a masterpiece of the Italian giallo/thriller genre. It sparked an interest in the director, his other films, extreme gore, gorgeous production design and Italy in general. In my horror journalism career I have been credited with drawing attention to the, then, unsung heroes of Italian  shockers like Lucio Fulci, Bava, Sergio Martino and Antonio Margeriti. And when I saw the 1970 giallo THE BIRD WITH THE CRYSTAL PLUMAGE it began my love affair with all things Dario Argento. His 1980 sequel to SUSPIRIA (1976), INFERNO (1980), remains my favourite horror film ever, (it’s tattooed on my arm), it was the reason I met him, became his close friend, went on location with him on every film since OPERA (1987), wrote my book on his work (‘Dario Argento: The Man, the Myths & the Magic’ ) and helped him with his autobiography ‘Fear’ in all language territories. Argento is still my favourite horror director.

Q. What would you say are the three strongest leather looks featured in film?

A: That’s difficult as there are so many. One has to be Marlon Brando in THE WILD ONE (1953) because it’s still the look many in the gay leather community aspire to. I suppose THE LEATHER BOYS (1964) carried that iconic look further. And then there was Mel Gibson in MAD MAX (1979), who wore it so well I tried to copy him (badly!).

Q. What are the best film scenes, if any, that have captured the founding years of punk rock?

A: None because the raw, street authenticity of the period can never be captured no matter how hard people try. Danny Boyle you should be ashamed!

Q. There are legendary stories that have followed you for decades, like how you were arrested in 1975 for wearing the Two Cowboys T-shirt, being part of the Bromley Contingent and for attending the infamous boat party with the Sex Pistols during the Queens Silver Jubilee, all things I’m sure you’ll cover in detail in your book. Is there anything readers may find surprising about the book, and you feel inspired to touch on here?

A: Yes, when top TV producer Mike Mansfield asked me to front a music programme on Punk titled ‘The Best of British’ featuring The Damned, The Adverts and the Rich Kids, what happened I’m not revealing here. And how about my writing mentor at the time being Jackie Collins? Yes, Joan’s sister and Hollywood wife herself. Too many to mention…

Q. For anyone just now discovering FrightFest and Trieste S+F how do you describe them?

A. FrightFest is the UK’s top horror fantasy festival now in its 25th year. Every August Bank Holiday we show over 70 new genre movies to the best community ever. We also stage Halloween events and are the main genre strand at the Glasgow Film Festival every March. If you are a genre fan, you should attend, so what’s stopping you. While I instigated FrightFest with two other people, mainly stemming from my iconic 1980s event Shock Around The Clock (I explain all in the recent documentary SCALA!), I was hired by the Italian City of Trieste to be the artistic director of the Trieste Science+Fiction Festival which has been running off and on for over 60 years now. Because Trieste is my second home, it was an easy decision to make and I love the contrast between both festivals as I continue working as a film critic, journalist and unit publicist.

www.frightfest.co.uk

www.sciencefictionfestival.org

www.fabpress.com


Collaborator Profile- Richard Walker

The artist Richard Walker took a series of photographs in 1975 that include rare images of inside The London Leatherman shop in Battersea and Vivienne Westwood & Malcolm McLaren’s boutique SEX at 430 Kings Road. Jordan Mooney referred to a photograph Richard took of her at this time as being one of her favourites.

Best known for his painting, graphic art, murals and prints Richards’s next show will be at Coningsby Gallery in London this summer, 2024.

Questions by Dave Carroll

Edited by Bridget Veal

Interior of 430 Kings Road with The London Leatherman product displayed on the left. Photo by artist Richard Walker, 1975.

Q. Richard, in 1975 you visited both the shops SEX and The London Leatherman to take photographs. Why and how did you come to take these pictures, especially The London Leatherman one’s, which are so rare when Ken was pretty strict on not allowing pictures in the shop?

A. I was in my 2nd year at Camberwell School of Art and we had been set a journalistic photography project called ‘Secret London’, so I went in the car with my tutor who was also head of department and a kindred spirit. She had previously spotted The London Leatherman on Queenstown Rd that looked interesting, but thought it was a private club. Meanwhile I had seen SEX on the King’s Rd and also thought it was private. So we went to investigate. Somehow we managed to get to take photos, I think we explained it was a personal project and it worked. However, I’ve mislaid the Leatherman images, but hopefully they’ll pop up when I stop looking!

Q. How did you come to discover The London Leatherman shop? What do you remember about it?

A. The London Leatherman with it’s wooden frontage and small window stood out in amongst its fairly humdrum neighbours. It was immediately appealing with it’s dark interior and fish tanks, if I remember. It was like a nightclub and because this was only 1975 it seemed quite extreme for the time.

Q. You’ve captured a pivotal time in fashion history with the 1975 photographs and you really had to have some guts walking into both of these shops, let alone go in and take pictures. How did you find the experience? Intimidating? Or not that big of a deal because it was pre- the hype surrounding punk rock?

A. Initially it was intimidating, but I liked that. I encountered Jordan and admired her defiant attitude, but I detected a vulnerability too. This is what she liked about the picture I took. It did feel like we were entering into a parallel universe. A little dangerous and claustrophobic. Even at that time I started to sense a shift in the culture and I was excited and ready for it. I’m not sure if I even knew the word ‘subculture’ at that time.

Q. Did you get anything from The London Leatherman or from SEX? Is there anything you wish you had?

A. As I was a student and didn’t have much money at the time, I only ever had one T-shirt from SEX the one with the ranting text all about ‘which side of the bed you were on’! God only knows what happened to it. I think it just disintegrated in some sweaty club somewhere. I was never really a punk, but used the energy to create my own persona.

Self portrait by Richard Walker taken in 1975/76 ‘This is what I call my ‘proto-punk’ period. As soon as punk went mainstream I abandoned that look.’ Richard’s wearing a The London Leatherman made ciré T-shirt in black.

Q. What’s your opinion on the association The London Leatherman had with the leather scene, gay interest and the new sexual liberation of the 70s?

A. As I was only 20 at the time, I had yet to embark on my gay adventures and as it was only 1975 the choices were limited, even in London. However these 2 venues certainly signaled there was a whole world waiting for me, so yes, 2 important cornerstones in the new era just about to start… couldn’t wait really...

Q. How would you say the mid-70s impacted your life and career as an artist?

A. Yes, a huge impact. It was how I developed my individual style. I became a bit of a rebel at college and rejected the course work, much to the dismay of my tutors. I was on a mission, and I saw my opportunity and I took it. I finally won them all over, mainly with my work ethic and dedication. Unbelievably they offered me a job as a visiting lecturer, which proved to me there was something in the air and things were changing. This period of development has been crucial to most of what I have done since.

Q. If you were to choose just one of your photographs from this time, which one speaks to you the most and why?

A. I think it would have to be my one of Jordan, mainly for the reasons above, but also because it communicates to people and is a document of it’s time

Jordan Mooney wearing her The London Leatherman LW3 studded wristband cuffs. Photo by Richard Walker, 1975

Q. Other than the SEX and The London Leatherman photographs, are there any other sub-culture references you’ve observed, documented or photographed as an artist?

A. Yes, many. At the end of ‘75 Patti Smith released ‘Horses’ and I felt immediately we had all been waiting for a bold statement like this. Up to then we had had Lou Reed and David Bowie celebrating the demi-monde and alternative lifestyles, but this felt new. The Warhol set had been hiding in plain site for several years ...influencing those in the know, but now we had a fresh input of new artists with new sounds and new imagery. I thought that the gay scene could merge with all this, as we were essentially all part of subcultures, which over the decades are now in the mainstream

Q. What can you share about your show this summer at the Coningsby Gallery?

A. Yes, indeed it’s the next instalment of my personal odyssey, the show is called ‘Revolutions Per Minute’ a title suggesting music, politics, fashion, the passing of time and the continuing forward propulsion of ideas. There’ll be key works from all periods to accompany a talk I’m giving called ‘Titian Licked My Ankle’ a virtual memoir, in reality a spoken word set of stories from my long career to celebrate my 70th birthday.

‘Henry the Horse’ 1978 limited edition screen print from Richards 1979 exhibition ‘Twilight Zones’ at Thumb Gallery Soho, London.

Collaborator Profile- Smeg

Smeg, he’s the lead singer of the psychobilly band King Kurt, has big hair and a big grin and we’d describe Smegs style as Lee Marvin meets Gene Vincent, Smeg knows his kit. Smeg and Dave have been friends since the early 80s, the first time they met Smeg was wearing a McLaren Westwood ‘F*** Your Mother’ Seditionaries T-shirt.

Questions by Bridget Veal Carroll

Q. Leather and rock’n’roll, they go hand in hand, do you have any leather wearing rock’n’ rollers you consider a style icon? And why?

A. As you’ve already mentioned, Gene Vincent is surely the best leather clad icon, he had it all, style, the voice, the moves. But, also The Sex Pistols influenced me greatly in my teens and I always wanted the same leather strides, I bought a pair at age 60! Too old? Never for leather.

Q. You were a punk rocker before becoming one of the pioneers of the Psychobilly genre in the early 80s. How would you articulate the transition from Punk Rock to Psychobilly?

A. The Cramps, The Cramps were the transition. For me at the time I was into Rock’a’Billy and into Punk Rock, I was wearing Seditionaries bondage trousers but with 1950s jackets and a bright red flat top (hair style). And the Cramps, they summed up everything in their song Garbage Man ‘One half hillbilly and one half punk’ this made perfect sense to me, this was Psychobilly.

Q. In 2010 you invited Dave and I down to a King Kurt gig in Islington, my first time experiencing King Kurt. Pre-show people kept rolling their eyes at me, saying ‘ooh, you shouldn’t have worn that/ those shoes are going to get ruined/ do you not know what goes on at a King Kurt show’!  For anyone that doesn’t know who King Kurt are, how do you describe the band to them?

A. You should’ve seen the mess in the 80s, we were banned from everywhere! Our music is good time Rhythm & Blues/ Rock’n’Roll/ Country/ Punk with its feet in the dirt (literally, in those days). We f***ed ourselves in the a*se though with the ‘highbrow’ music press for not having a political agenda. Our aim was and still is to have a good night out.

Q. Many people know King Kurt for your performance of ‘Destination Zulu Land’ on the British television show Top Of The Pops in 1983. How was this experience for you?

A. TOTP was a dream come true, it was the biggest music show for everyone of my generation. We were there from 8am doing what we did best, getting wasted! We hung out with UB40 for a bit (I still had one!) and I managed to upset one of the presenters -DLT a very rude, humorless twat. Like most ‘funny’ people he didn’t like being on the receiving end of a joke. We signed our contract with Stiff Records that day in the studio, then hopped on a train to Leeds for a gig. A good day out.

Q. Yours and Dave’s friendship covers many mutual interests from clothing to motorcycles, bully breed dogs to music. Do you remember the earlier years of how you met? Any fond memories?

A. Some memories are best left in the haze of history! But I can say we’ve done some crazy sh*t together over the years!

Q. There’s a legendary story I’ve heard of you going into Seditionaries and Jordan dressing you. How did this come about?

A. I was 16 and just got my first pay cheque, so went to Seditionaries to spend it. Jordan (Mooney aka Pamela Rooke) and I used to have a mutual friend who would pass messages to her from me and on this occasion Vivienne (Westwood) and Jordan were in the shop, they got me dressed in a full outfit and I stood in front of the mirror and declared ‘you’d f*** me!’ whilst fake masturbating. They were in stitches (laughing) and people were being brought in off the street to witness the spectacle! Vivienne gave me a parachute shirt, I was over the moon. Years later, I lent it to someone and never saw it again. But, I used to save up and buy loads of the stuff and had quite a bit in the end, sadly all was lost in a house fire during the 1984 Riots in Brixton.

(Left) Smeg wears Sir Tom Baker Sequined Tux Jacket with The London Leatherman 1976 Leather Jeans and Pistols Belt. (Middle) Smeg in the 80s with his exaggerated Psychobilly quiff, photo by Patrick Gilbert. (Right) Smeg wearing his The London Leatherman Leather Jeans styled with Pistols Belt, Lewis Leathers Jacket & Burberry Coat.

Q. A couple of years back you self-styled a The London Leatherman look fused with the legendary tailoring of Sir Tom Baker. How would you describe this look?

A. I’ve paired my The London Leatherman 1976 Leather Jeans with Tom’s Sequined Tux Jacket, a frock coat he made for me and what is called The Gutter To Gala Suit which is a kind of punk rock/ The Sex Pistols/ Johnny Rotten inspired thing.

Tom loves punk rock too.

Q. Do you have any favourite The London Leatherman pieces?

A. I love my leather jeans. But, the LV4 Jeans Style Jacket is one of my faves, I love my Pistols Belt too, the leather jeans are never worn without it!

Q. Are you working on any projects for 2023 you can disclose/ talk about?

A. I’ve got a new suit on the bubble with Tom and with the band we’re rehearsing regularly with a view of producing something new. Shows start in mid-May in Lewes and there’s a London show on June 23rd at The Underworld in Camden.

A Tribute To Jordan

News circulated rapidly when model, actress and pin-up of punk rock Jordan Mooney (Pamela Rooke) passed away this week. An immense loss to all who knew her, which has left us, like so many, reflecting on the incredible life she led.

A paramount figure in The London Leatherman’s history and recent history, here we pay tribute to Jordan by celebrating some of the incredible imagery she created, looks she self styled and moments in fashion history that have influenced and inspired so many and will continue to for generations to come.

Our deepest sympathy goes out to Jordan’s family, friends and to the many whose lives she touched.

One of the key icons to pioneer the fusion of hard-core fetish with fashion, Jordan was often photographed wearing The London Leatherman LW3 Cuffs as seen in this photograph by Richard Walker (1975). Can we also take a moment to acknowledge Jordan’s black eye make-up, a look that Julia Fox/ Kanye & Pat McGrath have made so famous in 2022 #jordandiditfirst

Is Jordan the most photographed shop girl of all time? Certainly not just a ‘shop girl’ Jordan’s career catapulted into all sorts of creative avenues the moment she started working with Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren. Here she is sitting between two busts displaying The London Leatherman LW26 Body Harness and LB13 Narrow Back Bikini in cire fabric (circa 1975).

Words by Jordan Mooney, for Another Man Magazine in 2020. You can read the full article here: Five People on Why They Love Wearing The London Leatherman | AnotherMan (anothermanmag.com)

Jordan’s leather cape and skirt (mentioned above) made by Ken (Heddle Magson) The London Leatherman. Her LLM items being particularly rare with SEX labels sewn in. Photo credit: Kerry Taylor Auctions

Jordan pictured here wearing her The London Leatherman skirt (SEX labelled) with Malcolm McLaren wearing his The London Leatherman LG2 Jeans.

Jordan with Dee Dee Ramone.

Jordan photographed in Berlin 2018 by Martyn Goodacre. Wearing a vintage La Rocka! jacket, anyone recognize the belt? #askingforafriend

Photographed in 2019 by Etienne Gilfillan, for an interview with Mark Wardel. Jordan wears AKA Six Clothing with a P&C (The London Leatherman) Pistols Cuff.

The London Leatherman LM2 wristbands and custom P&C Galaxy cuffs were her thing. Photo circa 2020.