PISTOL

With the release of television series Pistol by Danny Boyle we’ve dedicated this post to referencing some of the characters who wore The London Leatherman leather jeans in real life and as depicted in the series.

When Malcolm McLaren took the Sex Pistols down to The London Leatherman shop in 1976 to have a pair of leather trousers made each, they had what was called the LG2 style made, which are made to your waist measurement with a straight leg, rivets and jean pocket detailing. Today we call this style the 1976 Jean. McLaren also sold the LG2 style in his own shop SEX with his own labels sewn in.

Steve Jones

Steven Jones wearing his The London Leatherman jeans. (He also wears what we call the Pistols Belt throughout the series). Photographer Barry Plumber.

The London Leatherman 1976 Jean. Do take the time to measure your waist (at the approx. 10 inch rise) before ordering so that your jeans can be made to fit you as they should. Made using premium cow hide leather. Made in London, England.

Malcolm McLaren wearing his The London Leatherman made jeans of which he also sold in his shop SEX with his own labels sewn in. Photographer Unknown.

The 1976 Jean

Today we produce the jeans with a The London Leatherman label on the back pocket. If you prefer the label to be on the waistband as they were originally, you can make this request upon ordering, also the rivets on the pockets, you can request to have these left off.

The LG2 as it featured in The London Leatherman catalogue circa 1973.

Julian Temple wearing his The London Leatherman made jeans during the filming of The Rock’n’Roll Swindle. Photographer unknown.

We highly recommend watching the series (Pistol- FX- on the Disney Channel) if you get the chance, whether you’re a trainspotter and nit-picking at details is your thing or if you’re simply up for enjoying the story being told, it’s very well done and highly entertaining for both reasons.

The chrome leather Blockbuster Belt

The Blockbuster belt made in chrome (silver) leather with cream edging and matching D-ring belt loop for your wallet chain, keys or scarf. Hand made by the one craftsman (woman) from start to finish in London, England.

All sizes currently in stock at Shop — The London Leatherman

The Blockbuster Belt- P&C and The London Leatherman embossed on the inside.

All our belts are made to your actual waist measurement, not trouser size. Do take the time to measure your waist before ordering.

The dance group Hot Gossip wore A LOT of The London Leatherman clothing and accessories in the 1970s, the belts featured within their costumes a lot, just like the silver leather one on the right here.

A Tribute To Jordan

News circulated rapidly when model, actress and pin-up of punk rock Jordan Mooney (Pamela Rooke) passed away this week. An immense loss to all who knew her, which has left us, like so many, reflecting on the incredible life she led.

A paramount figure in The London Leatherman’s history and recent history, here we pay tribute to Jordan by celebrating some of the incredible imagery she created, looks she self styled and moments in fashion history that have influenced and inspired so many and will continue to for generations to come.

Our deepest sympathy goes out to Jordan’s family, friends and to the many whose lives she touched.

One of the key icons to pioneer the fusion of hard-core fetish with fashion, Jordan was often photographed wearing The London Leatherman LW3 Cuffs as seen in this photograph by Richard Walker (1975). Can we also take a moment to acknowledge Jordan’s black eye make-up, a look that Julia Fox/ Kanye & Pat McGrath have made so famous in 2022 #jordandiditfirst

Is Jordan the most photographed shop girl of all time? Certainly not just a ‘shop girl’ Jordan’s career catapulted into all sorts of creative avenues the moment she started working with Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren. Here she is sitting between two busts displaying The London Leatherman LW26 Body Harness and LB13 Narrow Back Bikini in cire fabric (circa 1975).

Words by Jordan Mooney, for Another Man Magazine in 2020. You can read the full article here: Five People on Why They Love Wearing The London Leatherman | AnotherMan (anothermanmag.com)

Jordan’s leather cape and skirt (mentioned above) made by Ken (Heddle Magson) The London Leatherman. Her LLM items being particularly rare with SEX labels sewn in. Photo credit: Kerry Taylor Auctions

Jordan pictured here wearing her The London Leatherman skirt (SEX labelled) with Malcolm McLaren wearing his The London Leatherman LG2 Jeans.

Jordan with Dee Dee Ramone.

Jordan photographed in Berlin 2018 by Martyn Goodacre. Wearing a vintage La Rocka! jacket, anyone recognize the belt? #askingforafriend

Photographed in 2019 by Etienne Gilfillan, for an interview with Mark Wardel. Jordan wears AKA Six Clothing with a P&C (The London Leatherman) Pistols Cuff.

The London Leatherman LM2 wristbands and custom P&C Galaxy cuffs were her thing. Photo circa 2020.

LV4 The Leather Studded Band

The neckbands, armbands, wristbands and a ‘ring’ with a single line of studs is what the code LW2 & LW4 (with popper fastening) refers to in the The London Leatherman Exotica catalogues that ran from the early 1970s into the 90s.

Today we offer the band as a wristband at 7 inches through to 8 inches and a neckband that goes up to 18 inches with a variety of stud options. Popular as a neckband it is also very popular as a armband and we recently re-issued it with the 0.1 Dome Studs like the one Johnny Rotten wore in San Francisco in 1978.

Size 1 or size 2 will fit most people, email us on info@prideandclarkelondon.com if you require assistance ordering your size.

LV4 Neckband & Armband with 0.2 Dome Studs

The LV4 as a wristband with 0.1 Dome Studs

The LV4 we refer to as a neckband but is also worn as an armband.

LV4 Neckband with our Centurion Studs

Women in Music

Over the past few weeks all three of our labels (The London Leatherman, Pride & Clarke and Dave Carroll LND) have been worn on stage and in music videos by woman we respect and admire. Introduced to us organically by the stylists and creative directors they work with, here are just some of them, see credits below:

Abbie Roberts wearing The London Leatherman LW2 Neckband, styled by Steven Huang.

TikTok sensation and artiste Abbie Roberts released her single Pink Champagne on February 23rd 2022 wearing The London Leatherman LW2 Centurian Stud Neckband & wristband and the pink Nobody’s Innocent T-shirt from the Dave Carroll LND label. Styled by Steven Huang you can watch the video here: 

Bass player Jennie Vee has been on tour with Palaye Royale wearing The London Leatherman LW2 Dome Stud Neckband and 2x 0.1 Dome Stud Wristbands. Self styled and introduced to us by her gorgeous husband Slim Jim Phantom, Jennie and the band have been photographed throughout the tour by Alana Ann. Click through to Jennie’s Instagram here: JENNIE VEE (@thejennievee) • Instagram photos and videos

Jennie Vee (bass) on tour with Palaye Royale. Photo by Alana Ann

Jennie Vee (bass) on tour with Palaye Royale. Photo by Alana Ann

In February musician Georgia Twinn wore The London Leatherman LW2 Wristband and our pyramid stud belt from the archive for her debut live performance at Colours in Hoxton, London. Styled by Creative Director Matt King, see the behind the scenes video here with even more LLM items:

Georgia Twinn live at Colours Hoxton- Photographer Alex In Focus, Styling Matt King.

Georgia Twinn wearing archive leather t-shirt and LLM wristbands.

Georgia performed at Colours in Hoxton at the beginning of March wearing our archive leather t-shirt, LW10 Centurion Stud Wristband, LM2 Wristband and 0.1 Gold Plated Dome Stud Wristband and the 0.2 Wristband. Styled by Matt King.

Matt also styled Gretel Hänlyn’s music video for her single Motorbike with The London Leatherman Centurion Stud accessories featured throughout. You can watch the video here: Gretel Hänlyn - Motorbike (Official Video) - YouTube

Alewya announced her gig at the ICA in London wearing The London Leatherman LM1 Wristband Styled by Lee Trigg.

Alewya wearing LM1 Wristband

And whilst on the theme of music, and not to forget the boys Oly Sykes of Bring Me The Horizon wore his The London Leatherman LW3 Dome Stud Belt to the NME Awards last week in London. Styled by Charlotte Moss.

Oly Sykes, Styled by Charlotte Moss.

Pride & Clarke Red Panther

The Pride & Clarke clothing and accessories archive is what we heavily reference when producing items for the label today, P&Cs significant place in the history of men’s style provides endless inspiration.

The rockers and greasers, even the mods who hung out at the P&C showrooms are well documented in films like Chelsea Bridge Boys and all the bikes and motorcycle clothing in the 1964 film The Leather Boys came from P&C- the clothing worn is a mixture of brands P&C sold not just the P&C label. But, P&C was a hive for motor and motorcycling enthusiasts way before the youth culture movements of the 50s, 60s & 70s moved in and P&C’s Red Panther Motorcycle is a magnificent example of motorcycling style pre The Wild One.

In the 1930s P&C produced its very own British made motorcycle with Phelon & Moore Ltd and called it the Red Panther in line with the shade of red the P&C (Stockwell, London) showrooms were famously painted and perhaps most memorable from the Michelangelo Antonioni film Blow Up.

The graphics used to promote the Red Panther in the 1930s is a particular inspiration for the label today and we were reminded recently of how good the panther head looks in print when neighbors John Croft & Mick Briggs from the East Midlands, both over 70 and keen motorcyclists sent us a selection of handbooks and pamphlets from a Panther purchased from Pride & Clarke in 1935. Mick rediscovered them during a recent clear out, here are a few pics:

P&C Sweatshirt with Red Panther artwork in black velvet flocking

Red Panther (screen printed) T-shirt

LV4 Jeans Style Jacket

The London Leatherman LV4 Jean Style Jacket is a true classic that featured in the LLM mail order catalogues from the early 1970s onwards.

A design that really does look great on anyone and everyone transcending the clone, the biker and the rocker styles. Today we produce the jacket to the same design specifications with updated detailing for 2022. Crafted in London using the best cow hide. We offer a custom service for costumers wanting a specific colour leather (POA), we also offer an exquisite and soft waxed sheep’s leather upon request:

Page from The London Leatherman mail order catalogue 1975

The London Leatherman- Jeans Style Jacket LV4 — The London Leatherman with updated detailing that includes the double popper detailing on the back for cinching in the waistband.

The London Leatherman 1975 mail order catalogue cover

The London Leatherman- LP7 Suit- Who Wore It?

Earlier this month we wrote about the LP7 Wrestlers Suit (you can read about it here) but who actually wore it? Perhaps the most referable is Linda Ashby the true and original punk rocker.

Photographer Ray Stevenson did a ‘Bromley Contingent’ photo session at Linda’s flat in October 1976 with Siouxsie Sioux, Philip Sallon (wearing the LLM cire T-shirt and LW10 cuff), Debbie Juvenile, Simon Barker, Steve Severin, Berlin, Soo Catwoman (wearing the LLM wristband), Sharon Hayman (wearing the LLM LW10 cuff on her ankle). In the pictures Linda’s wearing The London Leatherman LP7 suit which we have in our archive (her belt and boot stirrups are the LLM too).

Photo by Ray Stevenson 1976. Linda Ashby wearing The London Leatherman LP7 leather wrestlers suit. The London Leatherman LW10 cuff worn on ankle.

The London Leatherman LP7 suit in the LLM/ D.Carroll LND archive.

Photo Ray Stevenson 1976.

THE CLASH

From 1976, the conception of the band The Clash, until 1979 there were hundreds of pictures taken of all four band members wearing The London Leatherman belts, wristbands and leather jeans. Here are a few pictures for reference:

The new and updated design of the LW3 Belt using 0.2 dome studs that can be threaded through jean belt loops.

Topper Headon & Paul Simonon wearing The London Leatherman belts

Mick Jones wearing a The London Leatherman LW3 Belt & LW10 Cuff. Photo credit Hugh Brown

The new LW10 Cuff design with 0.2 dome studs to match the new LW3 Belt above.

Bernard ‘Bernie’ Rhodes was instrumental in forming the band and was their manager until 1979 (and then some), he was also Malcolm McLarens close friend. We wonder who influenced who when it came to dressing their respective bands in The London Leatherman?

Never afraid to reference, this great picture of Bernie Rhodes sits well with the Hepcat Cap we recently produced in leather for The London Leatherman, as does the picture of Joe Strummer by Bob Gruen below.

Bernie Rhodes, 1990. Photo credit Kevin Cummins

The London Leatherman Hepcat Cap in leather

Reference pic. Joe Strummer 1982 photo credit Bob Gruen.

ARCHIVE: LP7 Wrestlers Suit

We’re guilty of focusing a lot on The London Leatherman’s significant role in punk rock history, but the label really was founded as a leather fetish maker that dictated what was to become the leatherman look not only here in London but in Europe and the east & west coasts of America in the late 1960s, 70s and 80s.

The LP7 Wrestlers Suit with zip through crotch, adjustable with chrome poppers and leather lacing is a piece that featured consistently in The London Leatherman catalogues from the early 70s into the mid 90s. Here’s one we have in the archive:

The Leather LP7 Wrestlers Suit we have in our archive originally purchased in the mid 70s.

A page from a The London Leatherman mail order catalogue circa 1982.

A The London Leatherman ‘leatherwear’ mail order catalogue from circa 1982.

Time For Tea

These aren’t so much kit but a kitsch novelty homeware item.

10 oz ceramic mugs with artworks we’ve featured on Dave Carroll London label clothing in recent years.

The first is the Blockbuster (Fuck You Skull) design which is our version of the embroidered satin back-patch a member of The Sweet (band) wore on European television in the 1970s, we’ve paired it with Rock’n’Roll Swindle in a Let it Rock font…

Pure novelty yet functional is the Heat Activated Anarchy mug that reveals the artwork once you pour hot liquid into it. On one side is the Anarchy Skull which we featured on a collaboration sweatshirt in 2020 and on the other is American footballer Maurice Spencer as he was photographed for a 1970s calendar and then appeared on the punk rock t-shirts pictured below.

The Heat Activated Anarchy mug pictured here as it looks when cold/ at room temperature.

2021 Press & Media. Our clothing & accessories, who wore them?

EDITORIAL

Our clothing and accessories have featured pretty consistently in the press and media this year, affirming that The London Leatherman, Pride & Clarke and the Dave Carroll London label are not just for punks, rockers, bikers and leathermen but loved by popstars, super models, showgirls and the fashion elite.

As we head into 2022 here’s a selection, in chronological order of some of the editorial that came out featuring our products this past year:

(click on the image to shop the item seen)

December 2021

The London Leatherman LV3 Waistcoat featured in RAIN Magazine (December 2021) styled by Steven Huang, photographer Emilia Staugaard, model Kain Cleator.

The Pride & Clarke Hot Rod Speedway Cap styled by Steven Huang, photographer Emilia Staugaard, model Kain Cleator for RAIN Magazine.

This years Ivor Novello rising star award winner Willow Kayne wore The London Leatherman LW2 Centurion Stud Neckband for the winter issue of Wonderland Magazine. Styled by Brydie Perkins, Photographer Niall Hodson with special thanks to Mia Yates.

Willow also wore the LW10 Wristband in silver with centurion studs this summer for her live performance at ALT LND Festival.

Singer, artist, model Brooke Candy wearing The London Leatherman Pyramid Stud Superior Belt and a Pistols Cuff for Glamcult Magazine (Dec 2021). Styled by Matt King, full credits under following image.

Brooke Candy wore The London Leatherman Pyramid Stud Superior Belt & Pistols Cuff for Glamcult Magazine the JOYRIDE issue (December 2021). CREDITS Photography: @lushaalic Styling: @iammattking Hair: @jakegallagherhair Makeup: @georgiahopemakeup Nails: @hannahbnt Retouch: @sethpratt Photography Assistant: @delanna.q Styling Assistant: @jessica.fynn

November 2021

Artist and musician Alewya wore the Galaxy Cuff and The London Leatherman LW3 Dome Stud Belt for COLOURS X STUDIOS. Styled by Creative Director Lee Trigg, November 2021. (Alewya also wore a variety of The London Leatherman and P&C accessories for her live performances and music videos this year).

November 2021 Alewya wearing the Pride & Clarke Galaxy Cuff and The London Leatherman LW3 Dome Stud Belt for COLOURS X STUDIOS. Styled by Lee Trigg.

October 2021

October 2021, Alewya styled by Lee Trigg wearing the Pistols Belt and matching Pistols Cuff for The Lines Of Best Fit music magazine. Photo by Hendrik Schneider

September 2021

The London Leatherman LW2 Dome Stud Neckband in issue one of Metalhead Magazine. Styled by Matt King, photographer Jurga Romonaite. (The London Leatherman accessories feature throughout the issue, these are just a few of the pages.)

Issue One of Metalhead Magazine launched in September 2021. Stylist Matt King featured The London Leatherman LW10 Exotica Cuff, matching LW3 Belt and LW2 Neckband. Photographer Jurga Ramonaite.

The London Leatherman LW3 Belt with Centurion Studs in issue one of Metalhead Magazine. Styled by Matt King, photographer Jurga Ramonaite

The Pistols Cuff in Metalhead Magazine, September 2021. Styled by Matt King, photographer Jurga Ramonaite

Model Zac wears The London Leatherman LW10 Exotica Cuff and matching centurion stud Wristband for issue one of Metalhead Magazine. Styled by Matt King, photographer Jurga Ramonaite

LW2 Dome Stud Neckband in Metalhead Magazine September 2021. Styled by Matt King.

July 2021

The Pistols Cuff and LM1 Wristband worn by Alewya for her track Spirit X released July 2021. Styling by Creative Director Lee Trigg. This image featured on posters around London over the summer.

June 2021

In June 2021 this picture of Alewya featured as part of Dazed 100, where Dazed & Confused Magazine highlight the artists making change across the creative industries. Here she wore the Pistols Cuff & Pistols Belt and The London Leatherman LM1 Wristband. Styled by Creative Director Lee Trigg. Images from the same photoshoot were used for her performance for Pitchfork Paris in November 2021.

For the Transcendence 06.21 issue of i.D Magazine stylist Louis Prier Tisdall featured The Teddy Boy cap on model Leo Tully. Photographer Will Scarborough.

Model Tara Halliwell wore The London Leatherman LW1 Wristband and the Pistols Cuff for i.D Magazine (Transcendence issue 06.21). Photographer Will Scarborough, styling Louis Prier Tisdall.

In June 2021 Marc Goehring styled singer Dua Lipa for the cover of 032c Magazine wearing The London Leatherman LW10 Exotica Cuffs. Photographer by Jordan Hemingway, MUA Lisa Aldridge.

Dua Lipa wearing The London Leatherman LW2 Neckband & LW10 Exotica Cuffs for 032c Magazine (June 2021). Styled by Marc Goehring, photographer Jordan Hemingway.

Dua Lipa wearing The London Leatherman LW2 Neckband & LW10 Exotica Cuffs for 032c Magazine (June 2021). Styled by Marc Goehring, photographer Jordan Hemingway.

Dua Lipa wore The London Leatherman LW10 Exotica Cuffs for 032c Magazine (June 2021). Styled by Marc Goehring, photographer Jordan Hemingway.

Dua Lipa wearing The London Leatherman LW10 Exotica Cuffs for 032c Magazine (June 2021). Styled by Marc Goehring, photographer Jordan Hemingway.

Dua Lipa wearing The London Leatherman LW3 Exotica Belt for 032c Magazine (June 2021). Styled by Marc Goehring, photographer Jordan Hemingway.

May 2021

In May 2021 Karen Bell of sister duo Twin & Tonic was photographed by Martin Small for a The Chap Magazine wearing the P&C Galaxy Cuff and Galaxy Belt.

February 2021

In February Romeo Beckham had his modelling debut in Vogue l’Uomo, styled by Danny Reed and photographed by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott. Here he’s wearing The London Leatherman 0.1 & 0.2 Dome Stud Wristbands.

Romeo Beckham wearing The London Leatherman LW2 Dome Stud Neckband for Vogue l’Uomo (February 2021). Styled by Danny Reed, photographers Mert & Marcus.

Romeo Beckham wearing The London Leatherman 0.1 Dome Stud Wristband for Vogue l’Uomo (February 2021). Styled by Danny Reed, photographers Mert & Marcus.

Romeo Beckham wearing The London Leatherman 0.1 Dome Stud Wristband for Vogue l’Uomo (February 2021). Styled by Danny Reed, photographers Mert & Marcus.

Romeo Beckham wearing The London Leatherman 0.2 Dome Stud Wristband for Vogue l’Uomo (February 2021). Styled by Danny Reed, photographers Mert & Marcus.

Romeo Beckham wearing The London Leatherman 0.1 Dome Stud Wristband for Vogue l’Uomo (February 2021). Styled by Danny Reed, photographers Mert & Marcus.

January 2021

We were also reminded of this lost editorial image from the 1990s featuring a The London Leatherman LM1 Wristband. Styled by Dave Carroll, photographer James Muldowney, assistant Jimmy Jumbles.

Wristbands & Cuffs

Want to know more about your The London Leatherman cuffs and wristbands? Here are some production notes:

The black leather we use is vegetable dyed cow hide from Italy.

All of our studs are made in Italy and then beautifully chromed in (south) London.

No edge of the leather is left raw once cut, but hand painted and sealed.

All our leather goods are hand made in (central) London.

We use double popper fastening positioned just as they were designed originally.

These wristbands and cuffs are not reproduction imitations but re-issues that have been designed with improved function and quality materials for 2021.

Each wristband and cuff is embossed with the trademarked logo.

Both Sid & Nancy wearing The London Leatherman wristbands. Nancy wearing a LLM LW3 Belt too.

Both Sid & Nancy wearing The London Leatherman wristbands. Nancy wearing a LLM LW3 Belt too.

Sid wearing a LW10 Cuff that was available in various studs and leathers from the LLM Exotica catalogue.

Sid wearing a LW10 Cuff that was available in various studs and leathers from the LLM Exotica catalogue.

The London Leatherman LW21 Belt & Hepcat Cap

Fashion writer and stylist Tom Stubbs knows his kit and recently styled The London Leatherman Hepcat Cap in waxed sheep’s leather and the LW21 Belt with chrome eyelets for the menswear story ‘Velours Noir Fumant’.

Together with photographer Jon Gorrigan and model Dennis Nyero they’ve produced a series of images which you can view here: Tom Stubbs (@styleanderror) • Instagram photos and videos

The London Leatherman Hepcat Cap

The London Leatherman Hepcat Cap

MENS_S16_014.jpeg
LW21 The London Leatherman Belt

LW21 The London Leatherman Belt

NEW 1977 Elliot Tartan- Hepcat Cap

We’ve released our classic Hepcat Cap design in 100% wool Elliot tartan, a fabric sourced as Johnny Rotten wore a version of this tartan in 1977.

With teddy boy, rock’n’roll and punk rock references this cap is hand tailored in Yorkshire, England. It has satin lining and self-fabric strap and buckle at the back.

You can view our current range of caps here Hat Shop — The London Leatherman

1977 Elliot Tartan Cap

1977 Elliot Tartan Cap

Hepcat Cap

The flat caps we produce we call Hepcat Caps, which are another classic design we’ve based on a 1970s cap we have in our archive from a shop called Ted’s Corner that used to be in Victoria Market opposite Victoria Station in London. We’ve added our own updated details for improved function and quality relevant for 2021.

At first we produced this cap in Teddy Boy Cheetah Fur fabric, true to the original with satin lining and no buckle at the back which we continue to produce today.

The Teddy Boy Cap

The Teddy Boy Cap

Style reference: Brian Setzer of the Stray Cats cap.

Being such a great flat cap shape we quickly began producing the Hepcat in unique and specially sourced fabrics and leathers which we release regularly, the newest being the Combat Rock cap in a tiger stripe camo.

With self-fabric strap at the back, buckle and satin lining, like all of our caps the Combat Rock cap is hand tailored in Yorkshire, England.

Combat Rock Cap

Combat Rock Cap

You can shop our current range of caps here: Hat Shop — The London Leatherman

Reference for the Combat Rock, Hepcat Cap

Reference for the Combat Rock, Hepcat Cap

Speedway Cap

Our cap we call the Speedway Cap we’ve been producing for three years now and those familiar with the cap know its foundation is based on a 1930s workwear cap we were gifted by Adam Ant. The design details are classic and with the finer details we’ve added like satin lining, popper detail on the baseball cap peak for styling flat or with more fullness as you prefer and the specially sourced fabrics we produce the caps in, this cap really does look great on everyone.

The newest Speedway cap we’ve made available is the Salt and Pepper Linen Speedway Cap. We’ve brought this great style cap together with amazing cotton linen sourced to match the fabric of the shirt Johnny Rotten wore on The Anarchy Tour in 1976 with the Sex Pistols. We’ve always loved this fabric and using it to make a Speedway Cap works perfectly for everything we’re designing for 2022.

Reference for the new Salt and Pepper Speedway Cap

Reference for the new Salt and Pepper Speedway Cap

The fabric is called salt and pepper linen because of the effect created with how the black and white cotton is woven together. All our caps are made in Yorkshire, England.

We produce the Speedway cap under all three of our labels P&C, LLM & Dave Carroll London. You can view the current range of Speedway Caps here.

Our Pride & Clarke label Hot Rod Speedway Caps are available in Japan at BARKBOX

The London Leatherman Archive- how to date a garment?

The London Leatherman archive is a continuous fascination to fashion historians and collectors, with pieces being unearthed around the world all the time, often by chance and sometimes in the most unlikely of places by both long time collectors and those who have come to know the label more recently.

Garments or accessories that can be referenced back to old LLM catalogues or to pictures of someone iconic wearing it is always a thrill. But, it’s the rare and one-off items that are really exciting and give so much insight into Kens talent for style and leather work that continues to inspire designers and the clothing industry today.

What comes with finding these rarer items is the frequent question: when do you think this was made?

Without a direct reference like a picture or purchase receipt it’s usually by the zips used or the leather grade that you can tell an approximate year. Very early LLM was made using a thin leather that would crease like fabric, the early to mid 70s LLM used a lot of waxed cow hide leather that had an identifiable shine to it, thick enough for a motorcycle burn-time whilst very wearable for fashion and very similar to the leather we use for the collection today. In the late 70s the hide gets a little thicker with a bit more of a textured grain to it and changes again in the 80s when Ken was mostly using Connolly hide and high quality nappa. But sometimes you need to look beyond the obvious when looking to date something.

jacket archive 1.jpg

The archive jacket pictured here is a unique reference for establishing a date. This black zip would usually indicate late 70s or 80s, it has unique design details not seen on any catalogue items, the leather is thin, pure fashion and it’s from the leather we were able to estimate that this rare jacket was made between 1987 & 1989. The only other items we’ve come across made in this leather are the items made for the Vivienne Westwood A/W 1988 Time Machine collection, including the famous armour jackets designed by Vivienne made at LLM, amongst other items put into the collection (i.e men’s double breasted frock coat, jeans, a waistcoat).

Perhaps a one off or one of a small run of jackets, this archive piece is another wonderful example of Ken’s self taught and highly skilled craftsmanship.

Rather than email us about the archive, why not comment on this post below so others can contribute their thoughts too.

jacket archive 3.jpg

This jacket has recently been treated with a leather conditioner to preserve the leather and photographed in natural light so colour may differ IRL.

Sid & Nancy

Documenting the LLM Style

Very little was documented in the early years of The London Leatherman or of the fetish clientele it catered for in the late 60s and early 70s. This was down to the fetish scene, especially the gay fetish scene being underground and kept out of the public eye until well after The Sexual Offences Act of 1967 was passed.

Apart from the mail order catalogues, The London Leatherman rarely advertised, he avoided conventional publicity and magazine editorial, even into the 90s, Ken’s work was always word-of-mouth. It helped that he was charismatic and a very popular guy with many movie stars, pop stars and London socialites as clients and friends. He understood the importance of his own anonymity as well as customer discretion ‘I have a kind of doctor relationship with my clients. I treat my business with confidentiality’ he was quoted as saying in 1975.

You can see The London Leatherman designs worn by stars on TV shows like Top Of The Pops, as costume in theatre productions such as The Rocky Horror Picture Show and in music magazines from these early years. But, it was when the visionary and entrepreneur Malcolm McLaren discovered The London Leatherman and introduced it to his own clientele and to the artists he managed, that discretion was compromised.

In 1976 Maclaren dressed his band the Sex Pistols in The London Leatherman clothing and accessories paired with his and Vivienne Westwood’s own designs from their shop SEX and customers with no care for discretion started coming to the shop. Ken never expected young adults and teenagers to be interested in The London Leatherman, but they turned up not necessarily seeing Ken’s designs as fetish wear but simply wanting to buy what they’d seen their punk rock idols wearing.

Two people that Malcolm introduced to The London Leatherman were Sid Vicious & Nancy Spungen.

Sid & Nancy in 1978 walking along Queenstown Road, Battersea after visiting The London Leatherman shop. Sid’s holding a The London Leatherman shopping bag.

Sid & Nancy in 1978 walking along Queenstown Road, Battersea after visiting The London Leatherman shop. Sid’s holding a The London Leatherman shopping bag. Photographer unknown

Mick Jones (left) wearing his The London Leatherman cuff, Nancy wearing The London Leatherman pyramid stud cuff, a LW3 belt and both Sid & Nancy are wearing a The London Leatherman Centurion stud spike wristband Photo: Ebet Roberts, NYC 1978

Mick Jones (left) wearing his The London Leatherman cuff, Nancy wearing The London Leatherman pyramid stud cuff, a LW3 belt and both Sid & Nancy are wearing a The London Leatherman Centurion stud spike wristband Photo: Ebet Roberts, NYC 1978